Sam Travel Magazine

Just some travel & life notes

Menu
  • About
  • Archives
Menu

Category: Best!

Iblur Lake

A walk around Iblur lake, Bangalore

Posted on November 4, 2024July 11, 2026 by SamTram

There are two things I love about Bangalore.

The first, of course, is the weather. This one aspect outweighs all the other disadvantages of the city.

The other thing I love about the city is its lakes. Lakes are everywhere!

No matter your neighborhood, you will find a well-maintained lake nearby. (New ones even spring up magically on the roads after a drizzle.)

I live in one of the busiest parts of the ‘new’ Bangalore – Bellandur.

It is a crazy place—nothing like the good ol’ Bangalore you may have experienced in the 1990s (or earlier).

Bellandur is an ever-expanding concrete jungle, albeit overgrown with weed-like PGs. Then there’s the traffic. You will find eight-lane traffic squeezing through narrow two-lane streets. Traffic moves like a river during the short intervals when it is flowing—vehicles, regardless of their direction, find and occupy empty spaces.

Motorbike riders dart around like startled cockroaches when they’re disturbed. There is no lane discipline, no regard for road signs, and no safe distance maintained between vehicles. People use horns more than accelerators to get ahead.

And if you think walking will help you avoid traffic issues, it’s even worse on foot!

Let’s not even get started on the footpaths; they are constructed more like steeplechase courses! Street dogs dominate the footpaths if you still decide to use them. Most appear friendly, but this can feel like a challenging walk if you’re not a dog person. The streets are filled with temporary roadside eateries, with customers gathered and spilling onto the sidewalks. This forces you to navigate around them, risking involvement in the chaotic traffic where you’ll compete for road space with other vehicles. You won’t be able to walk a few steps without bumping into people, either on foot or on bicycles.

Everyone is in a hurry here.

Amidst this chaos and craziness, there’s a small oasis of calm- the Iblur Lake. It is a serene spot with a fine walkway around it, offering a peaceful respite from the city’s hustle and bustle. One circle around the lake is approximately 800 meters, a perfect distance for a leisurely stroll.

Iblur Lake is where I usually get 40 minutes of peace on Sunday mornings.

Today is another Sunday.

I cycle to the lake as I always do. As I reach the park entrance, I see the familiar mini food truck parked. A crowd has formed around it. The cook is frying puris. As I cycle by, I inhale the scent of the masala gravy freshly prepared by the cook. I see some customers pluck pieces of steaming hot puris, blow on them to cool them down, and then gulp them down. I avert my gaze, swallow the saliva pooling in my mouth, and park my bicycle.

I see the friendly lady selling healthy snacks. It looks like she has yet to have any customers. She should switch to selling fried snacks, and customers will come, I think to myself.

I enter the park, and to the left, I see a park bench with a couple of old gentlemen seated on it. One man is staring intently at his phone, playing the news at a high volume. The other man sits with his hands resting on his walking stick, observing the park visitors.

I often wonder what life is like for older people. What do they have to look forward to? Do they feel like a burden to their children? My prayer these days is that I don’t live to see an age where I am dependent on someone else.

I switch to exercise mode on my smartwatch. I wonder if these leisurely 40-minute walks are really doing any good for my health, as I don’t see any visible difference. That’s why I use my smartwatch—it at least gives me some satisfaction when I check my walk statistics.

I hear the songs of birds and the sound of water lapping at the lake’s edges.

I observe the joyful movements of migratory birds. One of them is sitting by the side of the lake. It looks wet and cold, its feathers all puffed up, its neck tucked between the wings, and its eyes closed—kind of like how we sit around a campfire on a cold night.

A few others are diving into the water, emerging at different places. Yet another one assumes an assertive posture—wings spread wide, standing tall.

As I walk on, I see a child rushing forward, laughing, with his father quickly calling out on his heels. The mother walks behind them, her face radiating happiness and calm.

I see couples, some with solemn faces, walking very quickly as if they are on a mission.

Then there are others, walking slowly and purposefully, discussing serious issues.

I see a group of friends playfully teasing each other and giggling. I wished I could return to the days when I had just started a job and was exploring a new, free world with friends.

I overtake an old couple walking unhurriedly. I smile at some people sitting by the side on the park benches.

As I round one of the curves, I gaze at the branches of a tree leaning toward the lake. Looking down at the water, I notice a puffed-up snake skin floating nearby. Do snakes inhabit this area? I make a mental note to be more cautious when walking along the grassy side lanes.

I walk past the gazebos. I see people practicing their dance moves in one of them, and I groove to the music during a brief part of my walk.

Next to the pavilions is an ‘open gym.’ People of various age groups are actively working the colorful, basic mechanical equipment in the gym.

I stroll beneath a canopy of cherry trees. I spot a red cherry and stop to pluck it. I squeeze the cherry and suck its grainy juice. This action takes me back to my school days. My school had cherry and almond trees. I remember we used to suck on cherries and crack open the almond shells to extract the nut.

I noted that I had completed one circle.

I look up. It is a bright, sunny day. I feel happier on sunny days.

My gaze falls upon the half-done metro rail looming before the Microsoft office. When will this metro work get done? Why does it take so long to complete projects in this city? Like most Indian cities, Bangalore is also always under construction. Roads take years to complete. Traffic would have doubled by then, and we would need wider roads. So the construction starts again. Circle of life!

I come across dog walkers walking a couple of well-groomed Golden Retrievers. A group of local park dogs watches the pampered visitors with a low growl, warning them not to cross into their territory. The golden retrievers appeared to be the least concerned. They walk around, sharing their contagious smiles with anyone who pays attention. I follow the dogs for a while, almost hypnotized by their rhythmic walk—tails wagging and behinds swaying back and forth.

Someday, I will own a small piece of land with a small dwelling. You will find me in an easy chair outside, with a furball of a dog at my feet. My mind drifts to a distant future, filled with beautiful thoughts.

I complete another lap around the park and continue onto the third. By then, I start seeing new faces.

After three laps, I walk across the road to a tea shop that I frequent. You can find such teashops in every nook and corner of Bellandur. Most of them are named ‘Hot and Cold’ or some variants of the two words. You can recognize them from the big brown tea boilers and a glass shelf filled with colorful snacks.

I order a black tea with ‘less sugar.’ (In teashop lingo, ‘sugarless’ means no sugar, and ‘less sugar’ means lightly sweetened).

I take small sips of the wonderfully made tea, pay him, and get back on my cycle for my ride home.

The 40 minutes of calm have prepared me to face any challenges the rest of Sunday may bring. I will face them head-on, lying on my couch.

Theyyam Photography

A Sony Alpha Workshop experience

Posted on October 30, 2024July 11, 2026 by SamTram

I attended a Sony Alpha Workshop in February this year that took me to Payyanur in Kerala.

Titled ‘The Dance of the Gods,’ this five-day tour was part of the Sony Alpha photography course and gave participants a view of Theyyam’s mesmerizing worship artform.

Renowned photographer Dheeraj Paul (https://www.instagram.com/dheerajpaul_india/) was our mentor and guide for this Sony Photography tour.

Over the five days, we went to various temples and houses during the day and night to witness different kinds of Theyyam performances.

The night-time performances involving fire and breath-taking heroics and dance by the performers gave us a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

What is Theyyam?

Theyyam derives its name from the word daivam, which means God in Malayalam.

This art form is practiced mainly in northern Kerala and some parts of Karnataka. Theyyam performances bring epic tales from northern Kerala to life.

There are more than 400 different types of Theyyams across northern Kerala and Karnataka.

Theyyam season starts towards the end of October and lasts until May or June, and the performances happen between dusk and dawn.

Here are a few pictures I clicked during the photo tour:

Theyyam Photography tour

Sony Alpha Workshop

Theyyam Photography tour

Theyyam Photography tour

Theyyam Photography tour

You can view more pictures I shot during this photography tour on my Instagram channel. Here: https://www.instagram.com/sampathmk/

Here’s my Amazon affiliate link to the equipment I used for shooting the pictures above: https://amzn.to/4hrwr6h

Let me know if you want high-quality prints of any of the photos above, and I will see what I can do.

I made a video of the tour, which you can watch here:

If you wish to experience the brilliant art form of Theyyam while getting mentored by an ace photographer, you can check out the tour conducted as part of the Sony Alpha photography course here: https://alphacommunity.in/photo-tours/86/the-dance-of-the-gods-the-mesmerizing-theyyam-of-kerala-a-guided-photography-by-dheeraj-paul/

Have you witnessed Theyyam? I would love to know your thoughts. Please drop your comments below.

Vipassana experience: I failed!

Posted on March 7, 2023March 7, 2023 by SamTram

This passage details my Vipassana experience and how I failed to complete the 10-day vipassana meditation course.

“Let’s get out…let’s get out…let’s get out now!” – one of the voices in my head screamed out.

“Hold on. Just focus on the imaginary square on top of your head and ignore the agony.” – another calming voice inside my head countered.

My legs were trembling with pain – pain from sitting cross-legged on the floor, for the past several days, and nearly ten minutes that morning.

My body’s pain sensors yelled at me to shift positions, but I didn’t heed. I wanted to beat the pain by ignoring it, by focusing elsewhere.

If I succeeded, I would learn the art of remaining calm and not reacting immediately to any disturbing events around me.

While I tried to maintain a calm exterior, a thousand voices inside my head were battling it out – half of them trying to convince me to quit and half trying to make me stay there as long as possible.

I had almost defeated the voices urging me to quit when this loud, gruff, hoarse voice boomed: ‘Start again… start again…!’

That was the tipping point on the sixth day of my 10-day Vipassana course when I decided I was done here.

I had learned everything I had to learn and needed to get out immediately. And thus, I exited the 10-day Vipassana meditation course midway!

The 10-day Vipassana Meditation course: How I landed up there

I had heard how several popular personalities had benefited from Vipassana experience, and how it was an effective tool to tame one’s mind.

My friend Smiling Buddha (you know him from our earlier escapades), too, had heard about it, and it was on his insistence that we decided to try it now. I was curious to discover how Vipassana would change the me inside me.

What is Vipassana Meditation

The Vipassana website explains it beautifully as follows:

“Vipassana, which means to see things as they really are, is one of India’s most ancient techniques of meditation. It was rediscovered by Gotama Buddha more than 2500 years ago and was taught by him as a universal remedy for universal ills, i.e., an Art Of Living. This non-sectarian technique aims for the total eradication of mental impurities and the resultant highest happiness of full liberation.”

One Mr S. N. Goenka brought back the Vipassana meditation technique to India.

What is done in Vipassana Meditation?

The 10-day Vipassana experience revolves around meditation by focusing on one’s breath.

  • The days start early, around 4 am, with group meditation. The breakfast break is at 6.30 am, followed by more meditation sessions.
  • Lunch is served at 11.30 am. After a short break, the meditation sessions continue from 1.30 pm. The last meal of the day is served at 5.30.
  • The day ends with a videotaped discourse of Mr S.N Goenka. 9.30 pm is bedtime.

What is incredible is that you don’t have to pay a single rupee for the 10-day stay and food! The Vipassana course fee is zero – the movement runs on donations.

During these 10 days, participants must follow the code of discipline, per which, among other things, one should maintain noble silence (i.e., shouldn’t talk) and shouldn’t make eye contact with others.

My Vipassana experience at the Dhamma Madhura centre

Vipassana experience: Dhamma Madhura
Dhamma Madhura at the foothills of Sirumalai range

So back to our story. Once we decided to attend the session, we checked their website to find out how to register.

The good part was that vipassana centres are spread all around India (and the world), so, finding a centre near us wasn’t a challenge.

We found one on the outskirts of Bangalore (Dhamma Paphulla), so we visited that centre one weekend.

It was a peaceful experience, and we decided to register for the course at this centre.

On checking with the administrative person there, he mentioned that registrations for a course would open a few weeks before the course start date, and we would need to register online.

So, we waited for the registrations to open. On D-day, around noon, we hopped on to their website. To our amazement and shock, we found the course was already filled.

The same was the case with all the centres in Karnataka. We checked for other nearby places and found a few slots open in the Dhamma Madhura centre.

We submitted our registration forms. (To register, one must fill out their background and write about why they want to attend the course.)

I don’t know how they shortlist the attendees from all the applications they receive, but I got a mail after a few days stating that I had been shortlisted. Smiling Buddha, too, got a mail.

There was a checklist of items we had to bring (apart from our turbulent minds) – comfortable clothing, an alarm clock, a torch, mosquito repellents, and such.

Checking in to the Dhamma Madhura Vipassana experience centre

We drove to Madurai from Bangalore (a 7-hour drive) and decided to stay there for a day before checking in to the Dhamma Madhura centre.

Since we would be going without much food for the next 10 days, we decided to explore all the lovely eateries in Madurai. We did what bears do before hibernation – eat as much as possible.

We ate to our heart’s content from all the popular eateries of Madurai. (The eateries around Madurai Meenakshi temple, Madurai Bun Parotta kadai, and Chandran Mess, to name a few). Here’s a short video about Madurai Bun Parotta Kadai:

Madurai Bun Parotta Kadai

The following day, we drove to the Dhamma centre. The drive was scenic and enjoyable, especially since the centre is located at the foothills of the Sirumalai range. I love driving through Tamil Nadu, I love the food, and this drive made me love the place even more.  

Driving to Dhamma Madhura, Dindigul

When we reached the centre around 3 pm, the registration and check-in of participants were going on.

We filled up the forms and deposited our phones, wallets, and car key at the front office. The centre had single and multiple occupancy rooms. We were allotted individual rooms.

Vipassana experience: Dhamma Madhura
Checking in at the centre

Since we wouldn’t be allowed to talk while we were there, Smiling Buddha and I devised a few hand gestures to communicate. (The most important among them was the ‘abort mission’ gesture – which we would use if we had to get out midway.)

I retired to bed early, at around 9 pm that night.

The Vipassana experience

At 4 am, I was woken up by the sound of a gong followed by the fierce ringing of bells. It turned out that one of the volunteers was walking around our rooms ringing the bell. This would be the wake-up alarm for us for the next several days.

I got ready and proceeded to the main meditation hall to find most participants seated cross-legged on cushions on the floor. I looked for the number they had assigned me and found my seat.

The first three days were about calming one’s mind. The technique (Anapana) focuses on one’s breath – specifically on the triangular area between your nose and upper lip, and then be aware of the breath that goes in and out.

During the first three days, I realised that the second most difficult thing for me was to sit cross-legged on the floor without shifting positions.

A few minutes into sitting in that position, my knees would start aching, and parts of my back and sides that I never knew existed would make their presence felt.

Adding to my woes, my mind would spin off thoughts like crazy – I surprised myself with the kind of imaginative mind I had.

I mentioned earlier that sitting cross-legged on the floor was the second hardest thing for me. Do you want to know what the hardest thing for me was?

It was to mediate while Mr Goenka’s chants played on the loudspeaker. No offence to the great man, but I couldn’t bear listening to his raspy voice (Here’s a sample: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqEWTlaweaM ).

Despite that, I tried to concentrate on the triangle on my face. I visualised the impurities in my mind settling.

I kept straying, and sometimes opened one of my eyes to peer across the room. I would find my co-meditators in different seating positions, trying hard to meditate. Some were seen fidgeting, some sitting like a rock, while some snoring away to glory.

On some days, strains of old Tamil movie songs would float in and cut through the silence of our centre. There must’ve been a temple festival going on nearby. The songs would break my meditation and transport me to a happy place (I love old Tamil songs).

During the breaks, I would stroll around the centre and stare at the Sirumalai range looming over us, with clouds covering the mountain tops.

Over the course of the Vipassana experience session, some participants requested and got backrests, which helped make their endeavour a bit easier. On one occasion, I put in a request for a backrest too, but it was rejected. (I think you can request one while registering).

On the fourth day, they taught us the next technique in Vipassana meditation. It was to first scan a small area (an imaginary square) on top of one’s head, and progress downwards, scanning the entire body, one square at a time.

During the process, if you feel discomfort in any part other than the area you are scanning, you are to ignore the discomfort.

Mr Goenkas’s voice on the loudspeaker kept giving suggestions about the sensations one may feel during the process. (“…Maybe heat or cold, throbbing or pulsing or some other sensations…part by part….piece by piece…”)

I sucked at meditation. If I considered a one-hour period, I would’ve meditated properly for only about 4-5 minutes. For the rest of the time, I would be thinking about where else I could have been, what else I could have done, my past and things I should be doing in future. Mr Goenka’s voice irritated me more when I tried to tame my monkey mind.

I just wanted to get out, roam free and maybe eat a vada. A hot, crispy, melt-in-the-mouth vada. With some tasty Tamil Nadu Vengaya sambhar and spicy chutney.

Instead, here I was, eating rationed portions of healthy millet.

Meals in the centre were simple, and I found them tasty. Since squatting on the floor with a full stomach was difficult, I usually ate light.

Around the sixth day, we were asked to try and sit without any movements or shifting positions. This was to practice Adhitthana, or ‘strong determination’.

That is when things got unbearably tough for me. Until now, I had managed to sit through the sessions, frequently changing positions to temporarily relieve aches and pains. But now, I wouldn’t be able to do that.

The thought of doing this for the next four days, the irritation from listening to Mr Goenka’s voice while attempting to meditate, thoughts of how I could be doing a road trip through Tamil Nadu right then, and the boredom from doing the same thing for many days – all culminated in my deciding to call off my Vipassana attempt.

Now I had to check if Smiling Buddha, too, would be ok to jump out since we would have to drive back together.

I had done the ‘abort mission’ gesture on the fourth day to him, but he had ignored my sign. So I wasn’t sure if he would be open to getting out now.

During the morning break, I signalled to him, and to my joy, he nodded in agreement.

We spoke to the teachers in charge about our decision to get out. I cited my inability to sit still (attributed to knee surgery I had undergone a few years back).

The teacher tried his best to talk me out of it – even offering me a chair for the remainder of the course, but my mind had already given up and wouldn’t entertain any thoughts of staying back.

Smiling Buddha used his most potent weapon – his reasoning and debating skills – to convince the teacher why he needed to get out.

Later that afternoon, we collected our belongings and checked out of the Dhamma centre.

I can’t describe the relief I felt when I drove out of that compound. It was so liberating that I wished I could bottle it up.

The first thing we did after getting out was to stop at the nearest tea shop to have tea and a couple of vadas. Since we had a few more days of vacation left, we decided to drive to nearby Karaikudi. That turned out to be a great experience. My previous post talks about this experience – read it here: https://sampathmk.com/chettinad-houses

I have compiled some of the sights from that trip in a video here. Please watch it:

Driving through the Chettinad region

In Closing

Now, if you plan to attend a Vipassana course, this post may appear discouraging. But please understand that my experience is mine alone. Your context and experience would be unique to you.

The course has benefited millions of people. Millions can’t be wrong.

Many go back to doing it every year. It is valuable and teaches you how to attain focus and peace. It has helped people get over grief. It has helped people write better. It has helped people govern better.

So please use this post to a) learn from my failure and b) understand how you must prepare.

Looking back, I can see why I couldn’t complete the session.

  • I landed up unprepared. I didn’t do much research about what to expect and didn’t plan. I just expected to show up and get transformed.
  • I didn’t put in the work. I wasn’t ready to put up with the rigour that was needed.
  • I wasn’t serious about the course.
  • And the silliest reason: I was not too fond of Mr Goenka’s voice.

So, will I ever do a 10-day course again? I don’t imagine myself doing it ever again. Plus, they probably have blacklisted me.

Additional reading and material on Vipassana experience:

  • Yuval Harari (Author of Sapiens) on how Vipassana helped him: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i1_YhlXiuxE
  • A good write-up by Jodi Ettenberg, blogger at legalnomads: https://www.legalnomads.com/vipassana-meditation/

Ones I found funny:

  • An account by Ivy Kwong (She, too, didn’t like ‘the’ voice): https://humanparts.medium.com/what-really-went-down-at-a-10-day-silent-vipassasna-meditation-retreat-taught-by-s-n-goenka-7c3ad60d027e
  • Found this video (and comments people left) funny: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5_VUIXbJrU

You must try Vipassana meditation once – it may work for you. I would love to know if you have tried the Vipassana experience already.

“May all beings be happy; May they all be secure.”

Hornbill Festival Nagaland

Posted on December 21, 2019March 31, 2022 by SamTram

The Hornbill Festival is held every year from December 1st to 10th in Nagaland, Northeast India, to showcase the cultural heritage of Nagaland. This is an account of my Hornbill festival Nagaland trip. 

 

Bangalore to Dimapur Flight

Our flight touches down in Dimapur, and the stewardess announces that the airline has lived up to its promise of landing on time yet again. So the three of us – Smiling Buddha, Deepak and I – are on our annual travel break to see the Hornbill Festival Nagaland. (If you would like to read about our past exploits, please follow these links: Bodhgaya, Varanasi, McLeodganj).

We disembark, collect our bags from the conveyor and head to the exit, hoping to see our college mate and long-time friend Akavi Chophy (now an Executive Engineer in Nagaland) waiting for us outside. He didn’t disappoint – we catch sight of a chubbier Akavi (than from the college days) waving to us. We probably may not have recognized him had we not seen his recent pictures – It’s been 25 years since we parted ways after our Engineering college days.

Glimpses of Nagaland

We are soon on our way to his house in his vehicle. I look around to catch glimpses of life in Nagaland. The Bumpiness of our ride brings my focus to the roads, which, to my surprise, are unpaved. I spot greenery broken in intervals by meat shops, markets and arched entrances to various communities. I spot red Christmas stars hung on most structures and trees. We plan to spend the night at Akavi’s before heading out to Kohima for the Hornbill festival Nagaland.

 

They call it the ‘Christmas flower’… red, pink and white Poinsettia plants grow in the Xmas season in Nagaland.

 

Akavi and his sweet family turn out to be perfect hosts; as soon as we step into his nicely kept home, we are welcomed with a traditional Naga shawl. They’ve laid out an elaborate feast, too, one which we polish off with great enthusiasm while recalling fun instances from our college days. Later that evening, we sat around in one of his many balconies. The night is chilly and silent, except for the occasional howls from dogs nearby. We sit around and chat late before retiring under thick warm blankets.

Hornbill Festival Nagaland: The ride to Kohima

Treacherous roads make the drive to Kohima difficult, and we shake, twist and move to the rhythm of the bouncy Bolero on a bumpy road. We see people selling many live rats along the way and numerous roadside stalls selling fruits – especially pineapples. The traffic worsens as we reach Kohima town, and our vehicle inches along. We finally reach Kisama village, where the Hornbill festival is held.

Why is Hornbill Festival celebrated in Nagaland?

The Hornbill Festival is held every year from December 1st to 10th in Nagaland, Northeast India, to showcase the cultural heritage of Nagaland. It is also called the ‘Festival of festivals’ since this is an event where all the 16 tribes of Nagaland (who have their own festivals) come together in Kohima. The first festival was held in 2000. Organized by the State Tourism and Art & Culture Departments, the Hornbill Festival various aspects related to the rich cultural heritage of Nagaland. It is a week-long festival and tourists can enjoy colourful performances, crafts, food, games and ceremonies. Traditional arts, including paintings, wood carvings, and sculptures, are also displayed. The Hornbill festival is now a major event that should be on any photographer/traveller’s plans.  

How to get to The Hornbill festival, Kohima: The nearest airport to Kohima is Dimapur. You can take a flight to Guwahati and then take a connecting flight to Dimapur. There are also direct flights operating to Dimapur from some of the major Indian cities.

 
Hornbill festival Nagaland
One of the Morungs in Kisama village

 

One of the tribesmen pose for photographers

 

Sights from Kohima

It is post-noon, and the village is bustling with activity. A cultural show on the main stage has just come to a close. Each tribe has set up a Morung – a decorated hut where trophies of war and other items are kept. Of course, the tribesmen (and women) are in a jovial mood and are seen interacting with camera-wielding tourists. They pose like experienced models for the tourists – giving each of the photographers their attention. They invite the tourists to be part of their dance. I click some pictures and move from one Morung to another. There are also food stalls set up. We get into one of them and try the local rice beer. There is also a war memorial near the village. We read about the battle of Kohima and the Japanese retreat there.

Wares for sale

 

Hornbill festival Nagaland
A Naga lady

 

Hornbill festival Nagaland
Hornbill festival is created for photographers and tourists – the tribes(wo)men are experienced at posing for the cameras (much like seasoned models) – and really enjoy interacting with tourists. Indeed a great platform to showcase the culture and an awesome arena for entertainment.

 

Here’s a short video I put together using the images I clicked:

 

Meghalaya

After a few days in Nagaland, we drive to Shillong. The trip takes us through parts of Kaziranga into Meghalaya. The well-maintained roads in Meghalaya are a welcome change from the ones we experienced in Nagaland. Shillong is a lovely little hill town, which we explore on foot. Maruti Altos ply as shared taxis and charge Rs 10 per passenger for a ride. The cab driver waits till he gets 2 passengers to sit in front and 4 in the back. If one wants to ride alone, she/he will have to pay for the rest of the empty seats.

The hotel we are booked in – Kaizun Bread & Breakfast – turns out to be a clean and very well maintained place with responsive staff. It is centrally located – near Police Bazaar, which is the main town centre. We hire a taxi for our day trips to the various waterfalls in Cherrapunji from ‘Shillong Tours & Travels’. The driver, Donick, turns out to be a young fellow who speaks impeccable English. (If you ever need a cab in Shillong, do call Donald at 977.432.7132 or email him at syiemiongdonald [at] gmail [dot] com).

Also, check out Dylan’s Café and ML 05 Café if you get a chance – they are awesome.

Check out Dylan’s café – a café that celebrates Bob Dylan’s music and poetry

.

Also, check out ML 05 Café – another beautiful café with a retro automobiles theme.

We also make day trips to the various waterfalls, a living root bridge, a cave and River Dawki in the next few days.

Nohkalikai falls in Cherrapunji, one of the tallest waterfalls in India. I understand that this looks even more beautiful during the rainy season. However, since I clicked this in December – the dry season over there – the falls’ power is less. So the image doesn’t do justice to the grandeur of the place. The legend behind the name is also interesting – it involves a lady named Ka Likai, her young child and her second husband. It involves murder, cannibalism, affection, food and guilt. Google ‘the legend of Nohkalikai’ to get the full picture.

 

The clear emerald waters of Dawki river.

 

Living root bridge in Mawlynnong

 

Portrait of a lady from Cherrapunji, Meghalaya. She runs a shop selling mementoes and local stuff near Nohkalikai falls.

 

I hope you enjoyed reading this post. For more pictures and stories about this trip, please check my Instagram feed: https://www.instagram.com/sampathmk/

Calaveras Pintadas by Sampath Menon

‘Calaveras Pintadas’ and Natgeo

Posted on November 4, 2019March 31, 2022 by SamTram

This is one of those little joys of life (the micro-happiness bits) that helps you keep going when nothing else is really working for you: my ‘Calaveras Pintadas‘ photograph (shown above) was selected to be a part of a Nat Geo bundle of images featuring the ‘Day of the dead’ celebrations!

Here’s the link to the gallery: Celebrating the Departed: Day of the Dead, in pictures – National Geographic

Notes:

  • If you would like to use my Calaveras Pintadas image, please download from here: https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/calaveras-pintadas-day-dead-skulls-1961567968
  • If you would like to order prints of this ‘Day of the dead skulls’ image, please visit https://sampathmk.darkroom.tech)

Day of the Dead

Day of the Dead (Día de los Muertos) is a Mexican holiday where families honour their dead ones and welcome back their souls for a brief reunion that includes food, drink, and celebration.

As per tradition, the gates of heaven are opened on October 31 at midnight. The spirits of children can meet their families for a day. The spirits of adults can do the same on November 2.

What is Calaveras Pintadas

A calavera is a representation of a human skull. It could be edible or decorative made from either sugar or clay.

The photograph I made is that of decorative skulls (Calaveras Pintadas). ‘Day of the dead skulls’ are used in the Mexican celebration of the Day of the Dead.

Families decorate their loved ones’ ofrendas (offerings) with both large and small handmade sugar skulls. As per belief, the souls return home to enjoy the offering on the altar.

If you have watched the animated super hit movie, Coco, it will give you a good idea about these traditions.

A shop with a painted skull image – near Coyoacan, Mexico City.

Decorative dolls from San Angel

A painter at work in Coyoacan

Note: If you would like a framed copy Calaveras Pintadas photo, you can order one here: https://sampathmk.darkroom.tech/products/824108

Unique things to do in Mexico City

Posted on June 16, 2019April 10, 2022 by SamTram

In one of my earlier posts, I had listed down some of my initial thoughts and observations about the exciting, colourful and bustling Mexico City. In this picture story, I will take you through some of the unique things to do in Mexico City. This is my Mexico City travel blog.

Follow along:

The City

Mexico City traffic
This is the first image I captured of Mexico City while seated in a cab driving me from the airport to the hotel I was booked in. It was dusk; there was a slight drizzle, and this scene reminded me of the movie ‘Godfather’ for some reason. I found this old VW Beetle very interesting and hence clicked this image. Later I found that VW Beetle is a ubiquitous vehicle in Mexico City and is known by the nickname ‘Vocho’ around here.
Mexico City Insurgentes Sur view
View of the city from my office. It indeed is a very crowded city.
Teatro de Los Insurgentes
Right next to where I was put up (in City Express Insurgentes Sur hotel) is Teatro de Los Insurgentes – a theatre with a facade that has a mural painted by the famous Mexican artist Diego Rivera.
graffiti
Graffiti and paintings adorn almost all walls, shutters and buildings. There’s art just about anywhere in Mexico City.
graffiti
See – what did I say in the caption above. Art is everywhere!
Tepotzotlan
A super-sized bull I saw in a place called Tepotzotlan. Price of a picture with you sitting on the bull: 10 pesos. I, however, saved the 10 pesos and my life by staying as far away from the giant as possible.

Mexico has a very fascinating and violent history. It is exciting to read about the pre-hispanic times and the Spanish conquest led by Hernan Cortes (Read about him here: https://www.livescience.com/39238-hernan-cortes-conqueror-of-the-aztecs.html). While in Mexico City, my friend Ivan shared a book set in those times – a book by Gary Jennings, titled Aztec. It details the Aztecs’ life – the culture, the Gods, the human sacrifices and the conquest. You could buy the book from Amazon by clicking on the link below (it has my affiliate id):

Unique things to do in Mexico City: Turibus Ride

A Turibus ride is the best way to get introduced to this city. These are hop-on, hop-off buses that ply all year round through different routes covering the city’s various attractions. You could choose to site in the lower deck or the open upper deck (keep lots of sunscreens and a hat handy). For more details on the routes, check out their website https://www.turibus.com.mx

Turibus ride Mexico City
Turibus ride – the best way to discover Mexico City’s history, architecture, culture and fabulous cuisine
Turibus ride
Sitting on the upper deck has its own perils – as you see in this image: you have to be ready to dodge branches.
vocho
A view of the city from the bus
faltan 43
Another view I captured while on the Turibus. ‘Where is Mariela’, the graffiti says. I hope she is found.

Coyoacan

Roaming around colourful Coyoacan is one of the unique things to do in Mexico City.

This is a very colourful neighbourhood where I used to spend many a weekend, clicking photographs. The place is vivacious and legendary for being the birthplace of Mexico’s most notable artist Frida Kahlo.

coyoacan mexico city
Walking around Coyoacan is indeed a refreshing experience. Music, aromas of various kinds of food and colours are all around.
unique things to do in Mexico City
A painter in Coyoacan
coyoacan
The fountain in the centre of Coyoacan featuring 2 coyotes
coyoacan
Every other weekend, I saw this person with a different contraption attached to his cycle.
Casa Azul - Frida Kahlo museum
The Frida Kahlo museum. If you plan to visit this place, do book in advance.

The other lovely neighbourhoods that I enjoyed walking around are Roma and Condesa.

Centro Historico (a.k.a Zocalo)

Zocalo is the throbbing historic centre of Mexico City. Walking around Zocalo is the best way to absorb this place’s history, sights, sounds, and smells – another one among the unique things to do in Mexico City.

Palacio de Bellas Artes
The most recognizable structure in Mexico City – the Palacio de Bellas Artes, is a prominent cultural centre.
Limpia in Zocalo
Aztec shaman doing “limpia” (spiritual cleansing) in Zocalo square
Mexico snacks
Even the snacks in Mexico City are colourful!
organ grinder Mexico City
Organ grinders (street musicians) are a common sight all over Mexico City. They live on the tips they receive.
unique things to do in Mexico City
You can get the aroma of meats getting roasted all along the streets.
China Town in Mexico City
The China town near Zocalo
Aztecs
Me, posing between two Aztecs in Zocalo.
Zocalo
There was a photoshoot of these models going on in Zocalo when I visited the place. I joined in and clicked this pic.
jacaranda mexico city
The beautiful Jacaranda trees in full bloom in Mexico’s oldest municipal park – the Almeda central. Apparently, the Jacaranda tree was a gift from one of the first Japanese immigrants to arrive in Mexico.
beautiful picture of mexico city - Palacio de Bellas Artes mexico city
A full view of the Palacio de Bellas Artes, which I shot from a coffee shop right across the street.

Parque Hundido

This awesome park was located very close to my hotel, and I thoroughly enjoyed visiting this park on Sundays. This is a place where dogs have a separate enclosure where they are let free.

parque hundido mexico city
The park has an awesome jogging track!
parque hundido mexico city
I thoroughly enjoyed watching these playful dogs.
parque hundido mexico city
The park is set below the street level and is a great place for a peaceful stroll.

San Angel

San Ángel is a colourful and picturesque neighbourhood that houses art galleries and artisan markets. The place comes alive on Saturdays for the ‘Bazaar del Sábado’ – where the best handicrafts of the highest quality from all over Mexico can be found. Definitely another one of the unique things to do in Mexico City.

San Angel Mexico city
Notice the cobbled streets
San Angel Mexico city
The Plaza San Jacinto
San Angel Mexico city
I met this amazing artist named Julie inside Plaza San Jacinto. She creates wonderful ceramic and stone art – awesome work indeed!
San Angel Mexico city
Pictured here is a paper-based creation by an artist named Yuri Angel Zarate. He told me that he had given some name to these creatures, but I forget what it is (gimboos or something). ***Update July 2020 – Please see the comments section. The artist has updated the name of his creation and a link to his website.
San Angel Mexico city
A street musician in San Angel
Tamales Mexico city
Tamales for sale in San Angel. A Tamale is a dish made of dough stuffed with fillings and steamed in a corn husk.

Teotihuacan

Located about 40kms off Mexico City, Teotihuacan is the site of many of the most architecturally significant Mesoamerican pyramids built in Mexico. Teotihuacan’s origins, history, and culture largely remain a mystery, but this city was founded as early as 400 B.C. When the Aztecs found this city in the 1400s and named it Teotihuacan (“the place where the gods were created”), the city had been abandoned for centuries.

The city contains The Pyramid of the Moon, the Pyramid of the Sun, the Temple of Quetzalcoatl (the Feathered Serpent) and many smaller pyramids. Human and animal sacrifices were practised here. I took a Turibus tour to this site.

Teotihuacan Mexico city
Decorated streets that lead to the site of the Pyramids. Those paper flags are known as Papel Picado.
Teotihuacan Mexico city
This shot was a stroke of luck. When I was standing around the pyramids wondering how to compose the image, these ladies in Sombreros showed up, and I got them into the frame.
Teotihuacan Mexico city
The temples are constructed in shape similar to the mountains in the background. You can see the Sun temple and the mountain behind it to get an idea.

Xochimilco

Xochimilco – A world heritage site and one of the most lively places in Mexico. Riding the waterways in these brightly painted and decorated trajineras (traditional flat-bottomed boats) is quite an experience indeed.

Xochimilco Mexico city
Hire a boat for about 500 pesos an hour
Xochimilco Mexico city
The colourful boats of Xochimilco
Xochimilco Mexico city
While you navigate through the waterways, you could hire Mariachis to sing for you, listen to Marimba music, or buy food and drinks from vendors.

Mexico City street photography

There is no other city that’s more ideal for street photography than CDMX. The place is so colourful, filled with interesting people and buzzing with activity. I used to roam the streets of Mexico City with my Nikon during the weekends and got some amazing shots. I have posted some pictures above. If you want to order some Mexico City photography prints, please do reach out.

So there. Those were the unique things I did and the places I visited in Mexico City. There’s a lot more to write about the place – the history, the food, the art and the music. But that’s for another day. I hope you enjoyed this brief photo journey.

If you have any comments, feedback or suggestions on this article, please leave your comments below.

If you would like to order high-quality prints of some of the photos I took in Mexico City – including ‘Day of the Dead skulls’ – please visit: https://sampathmk.darkroom.tech

Some of my images are also available on Shutterstock.

You can also watch my Mexico City Vlog on my Youtube channel (link below). If you like the video, please subscribe to my channel.

My Mexico City Vlog

If you liked this post, you may also like my other posts on Mexico City:

https://sampathmk.com/lucha-libre-in-mexico-city
https://sampathmk.com/mexico-city-travel-tips

Please show some love and share this post on Pinterest:

unique things to do in mexico city pinterest

Dharamshala and McLeodganj places to visit

Posted on December 30, 2018April 8, 2022 by SamTram

Dharamshala and McLeodganj places to visit: After our last year’s trip to Varanasi and Bodhgaya, my friend ‘Smiling Buddha’, Deepak, and I were back on the road again; this time to the abode of His Holiness the Dalai Lama of Tibet in Dharamshala (Dharamsala – also known as ‘Little Lhasa of Tibet’). This is my Dharamshala travel blog.

We researched places to visit in Dharamshala in December and developed a four-day itinerary.

We looked for cheap places to stay in McLeodganj and chose a small room through Airbnb – https://www.airbnb.co.in/rooms/14228545 – one overlooking the Mighty Dhauladhar ranges in McLeodganj.

McLeodGanj houses the Tibetan government-in-exile and is the political, cultural and spiritual hub of the Tibetan diaspora in India.

This is a brief picture story of our trip and covers places to visit around Dharamshala and Mcleodganj.

Flight from Bengaluru to Dharamshala

We took an early-morning flight from Bengaluru to Dharamshala. I slept through a significant part of the journey but woke up to a grumbling stomach. Slurping down a masala-filled cup-o-noodles seemed like a great way to satiate my morning hunger, so I went ahead and ordered one.

Flight from Bengaluru to Dharamshala
About to land in Dharamshala

Just when the 200 rupee cup-o-noodles that I consumed for breakfast onboard my flight to Dharamshala began wreaking havoc in my stomach, the pilot announced our descent. I looked out of the plane window to see the beautiful sight of colourful houses basking in the early morning sunlight with mountains in the backdrop.

The pleasant conditions outside seemed to be in stark contrast to the stormy one building inside of me.

Cup-o-noodles on an empty stomach never again; I scribbled a mental note as I stepped out of the aeroplane.

December morning in Dharamsala
Stepping out to a cold December morning in Dharamsala

Dharamsala in December

Just as I stepped out of the aircraft, I froze. I mean: I froze.

I can take a bit of cold, and I enjoy cold weather. So even though I knew that it would be cold in Dharamsala in December, I hadn’t packed any winter clothing.

Here I was, in my tees and shorts, stepping out into a cold, near-zero degree December morning in Dharamsala.

What was I thinking?! (Whoever finds my peanut-sized brain, please return it. Thank you.)

Dharamsala to McLeodganj by road
Dharamsala to McLeodganj by road

Dharamshala to McLeodganj by road

We hired a prepaid cab from Dharamshala to McLeodganj (one of the best places to visit in Dharamshala). After looking through some of the best places to stay in McLeodganj, we had chosen a basic bed-and-breakfast place through Airbnb, one that had a beautiful balcony with a view of the majestic mountains.

The prepaid cab that I had hired from the airport was driven by a young maniac who drove at top speed through the winding roads, blaring his horns almost non-stop, playing remixed Punjabi songs at high volume and taking calls along the way.

I was thrown around quite a bit but clung to dear life.

Triund Trek

Triund camping near Dharamsala
Triund Camping near Dharamshala. Picture courtesy: Deepak

Deepak, meanwhile, had reached Dharamsala earlier and had decided to do Triund camping (Triund is a small hill station in the Kangra district). He did the Triund trek (an easy Himalayan trek near Dharamshala) and camped there at night.

McLeodganj Street Photos

Walking through the streets of McLeodganj is a great experience (once you learn to ignore the honking vehicles).

Street vendors selling merchandise, eateries, coffee shops and cafes are all cramped up along the narrow streets.

Watch your step, and don’t stumble over cows and sleeping dogs.

mcleodganj city square
McLeodganj city square

Food and prayers go well together – McLeodganj is testimony to this fact. You will find numerous Momo stalls along the streets and in front of monasteries in McLeodganj’s city square.

Street vendors in mcleodganj
The kind of items being sold on the streets
dream catchers mcleodganj
It looks like Dream-catchers are popular among shoppers. They add a lot of colour to the streets.
mcleodganj street photo
I don’t know what these are, but they sure look lovely.
mcleodganj graffiti
Watch out for some awesome graffitis on the walls. Here’s a beautiful painting on the wall of a rundown house that I stumbled on.
dogs of himachal
If I am reborn, I would like to be a Himachal dog in my next life. Sleeping and eating are all they do. (come to think of it, that’s all I do in my current life. But dogs are cuter.)
Streets of McLeodganj
Streets of McLeodganj
vegetable vendor in Mcleod Ganj
A vegetable vendor in Mcleod Ganj
Bob marley merchandise mcleodganj
Hmm. Bob Marley merchandise. Hmm.

Restaurants in McLeodganj

You will also find some small restaurants in McLeodganj serving great food. I tried out one of these during my stroll through the town – a little place named Tibet Kitchen.

Tibet kitchen mcleodganj
The first restaurant I visited in McLeod Ganj. Tibet Kitchen.
Thukpa from Tibet kitchen, Mcleodganj
Thukpa (Tibetan noodle soup) from Tibet Kitchen restaurant. What an excellent way to beat the cold!
Interiors of Tibet Kitchen restaurant Mcleodganj
Interiors of Tibet Kitchen restaurant

McLeodganj Street food

It is difficult to restrain yourself from trying out the different foods on offer when you stroll through McLeodganj. I tried out some tikkis too.

tikkis mcleodganj
I couldn’t resist this tikkis. But I think he took me for a ride. Rs 80 for two tikkis. What do you think?
mcleodganj pastries
Try some of these pastries from the tiny bakeries in the town square.

Famous cafes in McLeodganj

McLeodganj has some great coffee shops, cafes and eateries. I managed to try a few of the famous cafes in McLeodganj.

Cafe Budan – centrally located.

Cafe Budan Mcleodganj
I spent quite a bit of time in various eateries and coffee shops. They all offer decent coffee and free wi-fi. Here’s me in Cafe Budan.

Illiterati Cafe – Awesome ambience

The Illiterati cafe in McLeodganj is trendy on Instagram – in fact, I found it while I was surfing through Instagram. It is also a rooftop cafe in McLeodganj. I had to wait to be let in and wait for some more time to get a balcony seat that offered a great view of the mountains.

illiterati cafe mcleodganj
Illiterati cafe has a nice ambience, tons of books, a beautiful balcony view and great food.
illiterati cafe mcleoganj images
We had a 15 minute wait time before we were shown our seats in the Illiterati cafe.
illiterati cafe mcleoganj images
While sitting on the balcony of Illiterati cafe in McleodGanj, my gaze fell upon the shrubbery there and caught sight of this li’l flower reaching out to get its share of sunlight. I thought it would make a good picture, and it did.

Cafe Ri – Korean food

Cafe Ri Mcleodganj
Cafe Ri was another small place that we went to. They serve tasty Korean food.
korean food mcleodganj
Japchae with rice from Cafe Ri.

Lung Ta – Vegetarian Japanese food, anyone?

Lung Ta Japanese food Mcleodganj
This is a Japanese restaurant we wanted to try but found it closed both times we went. Maybe next time.

Nik’s Italian Kitchen – Good food

niks italian kitchen mcleodganj
Nik’s Italian kitchen. Another lovely place with good food and ambience.
niks italian kitchen mcleodganj
Their farmer’s omelette was terrific.

Namgyal Monastery Dharamsala – Dalai Lama’s temple

Namgyal Monastery is the personal monastery of the Dalai Lama. It is also known as Namgyal Tantric College and plays a crucial role in assisting the Dalai Lama’s rituals.

Namgyal Monastery Dharamsala - Dalai Lama's temple
Buddha statue at the Dalai Lama temple.
Namgyal Monastery Dharamsala - Dalai Lama's temple
A view from the Dalai Lama temple.
Dalai lamas temple shopping
Hand made dolls for sale.
gyuto monastery mcleodganj
Gyuto Monastery

McLeodganj departure

St. John In The Wilderness, McleodGanj on Christmas eve, 2018
Interiors of St. John In The Wilderness, McleodGanj on Christmas eve, 2018. Constructed in 1852, it is one of the oldest churches in the region.
mcleodganj road trip
My partners in crime: Smiling Buddha (the one trying to board the truck) and Deepak.
dharamsala airport
Parting shot from Dharamsala airport.

In parting: McLeod Ganj has a chilled out vibe that will calm you down and help you look at life from different perspectives.

McLeodganj is a place to come if you want to slow down and reflect on your life and priorities. I have heard many stories of creative souls who have come here and stayed back for many years, some for life.


Read about our previous adventures here:

https://sampathmk.com/visiting-boracay
https://sampathmk.com/maha-bodhi-temple-bodh-gaya
https://sampathmk.com/varanasi-travel-blog

If you liked this post about Dharamshala and McLeodganj places to visit, please share:

Mexico City travel tips

Posted on December 11, 2018April 9, 2022 by SamTram

Is Mexico City safe to visit – This was the question on top of my mind before my trip to this beautiful city. Here are my Mexico City travel tips (for Indians) that can help you with your trip to Mexico City. This is my Mexico City travel blog.

November 2018, Mangalore: I was to travel to Mexico City for work, and truth be told, I wasn’t feeling exactly comfortable about the proposition.

For, up until that point, the imagery I had in mind about Mexico (based on what I had read and heard) was that of a heavily populated, impoverished, crime-infested city where drug cartels fought each other on the streets.

During the next few days that ran up to my travel date, my mind went on an overdrive whenever I slept, and presented vivid dreams of me getting caught in a crossfire between drug lords and working alongside Mexicans to build the wall that the U.S said they would.

To calm my nerves, I turned to Google to get the facts before I travelled. Though many articles did allude to the kind of visuals that my mind had made up, I was comforted in knowing that most of my fears were misplaced. And so I boarded the plane to Mexico City.

Mexico City Coyoacan
From a store in Coyoacan

Now. Me, in Mexico City: Time to apologize to this beautiful city and its people for carrying prejudiced, ill-formed notions about the city. This is a wonderful city, with that small, dark side that any big city in any part of the world would have. It has been 3 weeks since I landed in Mexico City (Ciudad De Mexico, or CDMX for short), and I have already started feeling like a local.

Museo Nacional de Antropología
Museo Nacional de Antropología

Here are a few Mexico City travel tips based on my stay so far:

  • English is still not very popular around here. You will need to learn Spanish. So download the Google Translator app on your phone.
  • While most of us Indians don’t believe in niceties when meeting strangers, it is a culture here to acknowledge a stranger with a Hola (Hello), Buen Dia (Good day) or Buenas Noches (Good night). For the ladies, a peck on the cheek is in order. And if you meet someone who is in the middle of a meal, wish them with a ‘Provecho’ (meaning something along the lines of ‘enjoy your meal’.) If someone sneezes near you, call out ‘Salud!’ (meaning ‘health’ – similar to ‘Bless you).
  • Food: If you are a chicken lover like me, Pollo is the word for chicken. I loved the churros, Flan de la Abuela (a custard of sorts), anything with Mole (a dark sweet/spicy sauce) and the hot sauces (like the Exxxtra Picante chile habanero ones)
Flan de la Abuela
Flan de la Abuela. Not at all ‘eggy’
  • While on the topic of Mexican food, here are some simple formulas to remember a few popular Mexican dishes (as taught to me by mi amigo, Manuel):
    • Tortilla + Cheese = Quesadilla
    • Quesadilla + Meat = Taco
    • Taco + Sauce = Enchilada
    • Tortilla strips + Sauce = Chilaquiles
    • Bread + Beans + Cheese = Molletes

mexican tacos
  • Transport: Uber is the safest mode. You can take the local pink taxi as well, but make sure the number plate matches the one painted on the body. If you want to travel by Metro Bus or rail, travel light. And make sure you keep your wallet and phone in your front pockets where you can keep a check. I’ve heard that pickpockets are really good at their work around here.
  • And finally, Mexico City is a well-developed, happening city with its own quirks. Art, food and history lovers will love this place

There’s more; these are just some of my Mexico City travel tips. More to come!


How to get a Mexico visa from India: I travelled to Mexico on a Business visa. If you have a valid US visa, you can enter Mexico. If you are looking for information on Mexico work visa for Indians, Mexico visa fees for Indians or Mexico visa documents requirements for Indian citizens, please visit Mexico visa site at https://embamex.sre.gob.mx/india/index.php/consulares/visas. Mexico visa fee for Indians (application fees) is around Rs. 4000.

It is not possible to get a Mexico visa online – you will need to visit the Mexico consulate, and the process usually takes 2 days. Mexico Embassy in India opening date

Please follow all the instructions mentioned on the consulate site – while verifying your documents, they are extremely strict and may ask you to resubmit documents if there are any discrepancies. (Try to get a morning appointment, so that, if they ask you to resubmit your photograph or something you can manage within the day, you have some time to resubmit the documents on the same day. Otherwise, you will have to rebook an appointment and make another trip to New Delhi.


Hasta luego amigos!

If you liked this post, you may like these other posts about Mexico City:

https://sampathmk.com/unique-things-to-do-in-mexico-city
https://sampathmk.com/lucha-libre-in-mexico-city

A Varanasi travel blog

Posted on January 30, 2018April 9, 2022 by SamTram

This Varanasi travel blog (Kashi travel blog) continues from where I left off last week: If you haven’t read Part 1 of this story, please read it here before proceeding further. Here is the link:

https://sampathmk.com/maha-bodhi-temple-bodh-gaya

Heading to Varanasi

We left peaceful Bodh Gaya to head to another interesting place, a place where we would experience a sensory overload—Varanasi (Also known as Banaras or Kashi). This blog on Varanasi is also a photo story on Varanasi.

After a few hours of a train journey from peaceful Bodh Gaya, we found ourselves in one giant confusion known as Varanasi.

If you believe Bangalore has the worst traffic jams, you must visit Varanasi. Cows, people, e-rickshaws, 2-wheelers, rickshaws, and cars jostle for a little free space on the roads with horns continuously blaring. Miraculously, 8-lane traffic squeezes through a single lane without too many incidents.

streets of varanasi (banaras)
Varanasi Streets

Varanasi food

Among many other things, Varanasi is a paradise for foodies. Pictured here is the ‘Blue Lassy shop’- a shop famous for its delicious lassis.

One crazy custom we noted here was that customers put up their passport-sized photos on the wall to mark their visit.

You can also get bhang lassis (a potent cannabis-laced lassi) in some Government licensed outlets in Varanasi, but I wouldn’t recommend drinking one if you have a train or flight to catch in a few hours.

blue lassi shop varanasi
Blue Lassi Shop
varanasi malaiyo
What is a Varanasi travel blog without photos of some tasty food? Another lovely delicacy is Malaiyo – a fluffy milk-based sweet prepared only in Varanasi during the winter season.
kachori gali varanasi
Kachori Gali is the place to go for awesome snacks in Varanasi. The lane has several shops selling sweets, kachoris, tikkis and other snacks.
Bati-Chokha from Pallavi restaurant
Bati-Chokha from Pallavi restaurant.
varanasi sweets
Suffering from the sweet tooth? Book your travel to Varanasi now.
varanasi street food
Found this small hole-in-the-wall shop selling piping hot idly-vada-sambar. What more can a Madrasi in North India ask for? Like my roomies from yore used to say: “Brahman khush hua!”

Banarasi Paan

banarasi paan
So we finally got to eat the famous Banarasi paan. In fact, we were eating one every hour.
varanasi paan
Close-up shot of the Banarasi paan.

Ghats of Varanasi

varanasi ghats at dusk
The ghats of Varanasi at dusk.
Ganga Aarti in progress at Dashashwamedh Ghat
Ganga Aarti is in progress at Dashashwamedh Ghat.
ganga aarti varanasi
People watch the aarti from their boats.
ganga aarti at varanasi
A close-up shot of the aarti.
varanasi ghats
We walked across the length of the ghats.
Manikarnika ghat
The most confronting ghat, Manikarnika ghat–where dead bodies are cremated 24 X 7.
Manikarnika ghat
Manikarnika ghat in daylight. Boats keep supplying firewood continuously.
Bhonsale Ghat
Bhonsale Ghat.
varanasi sadhoo (sadhu)
A sadhu in Varanasi.
varanasi sadhoo (sadhu)
Them Sadhus sitting around the ghats.
varanasi graffiti
Along the ghats, you will find these occasional, beautiful graffiti.
varanasi graffiti
Here’s another wall art.
maria sabina graffiti varanasi
And another.
brown bread bakery varanasi
This small, cosy bakery that serves cakes and continental food is near one of the ghats.
kashi vishwanath temple
A small lane that leads to the Kashi Vishwanath temple.
varanasi street photo
An open-air barbershop.
varanasi ghats
One last look at the ghats.
morning aarti at Assi ghat
The morning aarti at Assi ghat.

An end to another wonderful journey – a trip where we met the most cheerful people, ate the most wonderful of food, experienced raw life energy, got some new perspectives, and came back to a loving family. I hope you enjoyed this Varanasi travel blog.

If you enjoyed this Varanasi travel blog, please share it on Pinterest:

Maha Bodhi temple, Bodh Gaya

Posted on January 27, 2018April 1, 2022 by SamTram

This is an account of my trip to Maha Bodhi temple Bodh Gaya.

The flight to Patna

I grabbed a cup of hot bella coffee from the crowded Hatti Kaapi outlet outside the Bangalore airport terminal and found a comfortable seat to perch myself.

I had caught an early morning flight from Mangalore. I was to be joined by my friend Ganesh a.k.a the smiling buddha (SB), the master planner behind this trip, and his friend Deepak—a young entrepreneur who’d given up his career in a large Investment bank to pursue opportunities in waste management.

We were going to Bihar to experience what Bodh Gaya had to offer and then to Varanasi by road and rail. We would fly to Patna, take a train to Nalanda, go by bus to Bodh Gaya, take a train to Varanasi, and then fly back to Bangalore from Varanasi. (Alternatively, you can also take a flight to the Bodhgaya airport).

Soon enough, I caught sight of SB, who, instead of looking for me, was standing in the line at some food outlet. Deepak joined us shortly after, and we were on our way.

We landed in Patna by late afternoon. Sorry to say this, Bihar, but your airport needs some serious work. It reminded us of the tiny Cochin airport from some 15 years ago.

A prepaid cab took us to Hotel Fort, where we’d booked a room. Thankfully the room we got was slightly bigger than the Patna airport, so we could sleep well after a long flight.

Follow the rest of the story in pictures and captions:

Nalanda

Litti Chokha patna
When in Rome, eat like the Romans. When in Bihar, eat Litti Chokha. SB educated us about Litti Chokha being the traditional dish of Bihar (knowledge he had gained Googling a few minutes earlier, I suspect). The name sounded interesting, and so we decided that would be our dinner. Soon we found ourselves enjoying some hot Littis from a street-side cart named ‘DK Litti Corner’. Apparently, the owner was a well-travelled man, for his cart featured photos of him in various parts of the world, sticking Littis into customers’ mouths.
nalanda auto rikshaw
An early-morning passenger train took us from Patna to Nalanda. We checked into a Bates-motel sort of a Guesthouse located somewhere in Nalanda. The food there was arranged from nearby homes, and hence tasted fresh and great. For the next one hour, the food delivery ladies had the workout of their lives, running up and down fetching freshly prepared rotis and curries for 3 hungry gluttons while we kept emptying our plates, crying ‘more… more!’. We then befriended an auto-wallah (one who drives the ornate auto pictured here) and made a deal with him to show us around. Pictured above: Deepak (Standing, left), me in the driver’s seat, and SB.
Kundalpur Digambar Jain temple
The awesomely painted roof of the Kundalpur Digambar Jain temple –
Birthplace of Lord Mahaveer, sacred for the Jains.
We also went on to visit the ‘Black Buddha’ temple before heading back to the hotel. The isolated guest house we had checked into looked a bit eerie in the dark. The night was cold and still. Strains of Hindi songs playing nearby, and the trucks passing through the highway comforted us with an assurance that help was nearby if a knife-wielding psycho barged into our dimly lit room. Around midnight, the explorer in SB awoke as another brainwave struck him!
Nalanda University
“Why don’t we walk down and get a paan? Paans must be good here”, he said. So off we went, into the cold of night, in search of paan. Careful not to get run down by passing trucks, we trudged along the side of the highway and soon came upon a paan shop. And so we had paan that night. Oh, and how good was it? Meh. Our wish to eat a great paan would only get fulfilled later in Varanasi.
Pictured above: The world-famous ruins of Nalanda University.
Nalanda University
An old guide forced his guidance services upon us as we entered the ruins of Nalanda. I should say, his dedication to his job was unparalleled. To ensure he gave maximum customer satisfaction, he spewed out stories, philosophy and his own interpretation of the benefits of vipassana meditation to his ensnared listeners. But his stories were indeed intriguing and transported us to an era when India was a coveted place for studies.
Pictured above: The overzealous guide trying to catch up with his fleeing listeners.

Bodhgaya Monasteries

Colourful house in Bodh gaya
The following morning, we took a bus from Nalanda to Bodh Gaya. The bus ride was interesting, for, just like the train ride, it gave us a glimpse of the countrysides of Bihar – the fields, cattle, and the life of villagers. We checked into Hotel Lumbini International–a fine old, cosy hotel located centrally in Bodh Gaya. A little later, we got out to explore the streets of Bodh Gaya. A wrong turn took us into an alley of colourful houses.
Pictured above: a colourful house in Bodh Gaya.
thai monastery bodh gaya
There are many monasteries set up by Buddhist communities from various countries. The Thai monastery was the best of the lot.
Pictured above: A guardian statue in front of the Thai monastery.
Buddha statue in Thai monastery, Bodh Gaya
Pictured above: The Buddha statue inside the Thai monastery.
Buddha statue from the Tibetan monastery, Bodh Gaya
Buddha statue from the Tibetan monastery.
Bodh Gaya streets
The weather was pleasant, and so we decided to explore the city on foot.
Buddha statue inside the Royal Bhutan temple Bodh gaya
Pictured above: Buddha statue inside the Royal Bhutan temple.
Buddha statue inside Tergar monastery, Bodh Gaya
Pictured above: Buddha statue inside Tergar monastery.
Italian bakery in Tergar temple Bodh gaya
The Tergar temple had an Italian bakery set up inside its compound. Cakes, Muffins and some coffee from there refreshed us.

Bodhgaya Streets

Dalai Lama's barber shop
Bodh Gaya: Where the Dalai Lama’s hairstyle is in vogue.
buddhist monks bodh gaya
Cycle rickshaws and electric rickshaws are popular modes of transport in Bodhgaya. We saw monks whiz past in rickshaws,…
bodh gaya streets
…and in e-rickshaws.
Bodh gaya street shopping
It was shopping time. The streets are lined with shops selling prayer wheels, beads and Buddha statues.
Bodh gaya street shopping
Bronze statues for sale in street-side shops in Bodh Gaya.
The Great Buddha Statue, Bodh gaya
The Great Buddha Statue.
Buddha statue in Metta Buddharam Temple Bodh Gaya
Buddha statue in Metta Buddharam Temple.

Maha Bodhi temple

Maha Bodhi temple Bodh Gaya
So finally, it was time for the main attraction–the reason why we came here: to visit the Maha Bodhi (“Great Awakening”) temple.
Pictured above: Entrance to the Maha Bodhi temple.
The Maha Bodhi temple, Bodh Gaya
The Maha Bodhi temple. This picture does not do justice to the grandeur of the temple.
Buddha statue, Maha Bodhi temple
A queue had already formed to visit the inside of the temple. Since I wasn’t comfortable taking Buddha photos, I sneaked this one and set my camera aside.
Maha Bodhi temple
The sides of the temple had carvings all around. As pictured here.
Buddha carving in bodhgaya temple
A shot of another Buddha carving.
Devotees in Maha Bodhi temple
We saw devotees engaged in prayers all around the temple. Like her–she was swaying and chanting prayers without moving from her position for long.
Devotees in Maha Bodhi temple
Here’s another devotee praying from inside a tent–seated to keep the mosquitoes at bay.
Maha Bodhi temple monk
This devotee was praying while emptying and refilling a container with beads.
Monks in Maha Bodhi temple
This shot was from one of the sides of the temple.
Devotees in Maha Bodhi temple
This person found a spot outside the main temple.
Inside Maha Bodhi temple
We walked around the temple a few times.
The Maha Bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya where Lord Buddha got enlightenment
The Maha Bodhi tree. This is the tree under which Lord Buddha got enlightenment.
The Maha Bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya where Lord Buddha got enlightenment
Another shot of the Maha Bodhi tree.
A sadhu in Bodhgaya
I am always uncomfortable photographing people since I am not sure what their reaction would be. So I either do it from a distance, without calling attention to myself or, as I did here, ask for permission before shooting (in which case the photo turns out ‘posed’).
This sadhu did a good job here as a model. When I requested him for a photo, he cleaned himself up a bit, brushed his beard and gave me an intense look. I gave him fifty rupees as alms–I hope I get some karma points.
Sadhu in Bodhgaya
Another shot of the sadhu.
Ashoka pillar in Maha Bodhi temple
This is definitely the slot machine of the monks. The myth is that if you manage to land a coin on top of this Ashoka Pillar, your wish would be fulfilled.
Muchalinda Lake
Muchalinda Lake: where a snake protected Buddha from a thunderstorm.
Bodh Gaya at night
We spent about 3 days in Bodh Gaya. The night before we left, we went to the temple and sat around for some time.
Sitting under Bodhi tree at night
Bodh Gaya temple was beautiful at night. Sitting under the Bodhi tree was a peaceful experience–one that you’d want to experience more often. It was difficult to leave this place, but then we had to :(.

After Bodh Gaya, we went to Varanasi. Read our Bodhgaya to Varanasi trip account here:

https://sampathmk.com/varanasi-travel-blog

Have you been to Bodh Gaya? Tell me about your experience, will you?

Before you go: Do hop over to Livemint to read a published version of my Bodhgaya experience titled ‘An under the Bodhi tree experience’. Thank you.

Liked this post? Please share on Pinterest:

Ellora caves architecture

Posted on September 3, 2017April 2, 2022 by SamTram

Ellora caves architecture: Ellora is one of the largest rock-cut cave complexes in the world and is truly an engineering marvel. The Kailash temple (Cave 16), also known as Kailasa or Kailashnath temple is the largest single monolithic rock excavation in the world.

This is an account of my trip to see the Ellora caves architecture. Ellora, a UNESCO World Heritage Site is located in Aurangabad, Maharashtra.

Planning the trip

Of late, I have started enjoying making conversations with strangers – mostly Uber drivers. Maybe it has got to do with the fact that I am living in a new city, and that I use Uber a lot to commute to the office these days.

Since I knew that my stay in this city would be temporary, I had got myself a used scooter that I thought would suffice for my daily commutes to the office. But like the impulsive shopper that I am, I hadn’t put a lot of thought into this transaction as well.

The scooter did well for a few weeks. But as days went by, the scooter started producing rattling noises from all sides, and soon my passage was akin to a marching band.

Children would come out to watch me drive through, and I would wave to them. Occasionally some parts fell out of the scooter too as I was riding. Soon I realized that:

  • I could ride faster since my scooter was getting lighter
  • I would never get lost since I could find my way home by following the trail of nuts and bolts that my scooter had left behind
  • My scooter was built with a lot of extra components that really weren’t required and above all,
  • It was time I gave away my scooter

The chai-wallah near my home had shown keen interest in my scooter and had asked me whether I would be willing to sell my scooter to him when I left Pune.

I thought this would be a good time to strike a deal with him, which I did. I did not do a monetary transaction. Instead, I gave my scooter to him in exchange for free teas from his shop. He was overjoyed.

Post the deal, I had to rely on Uber for my office commutes.

And it was during one of these trips that I met Bakshi (not his real name of course – I changed it to protect his identity. Brilliant me).

Bakshi was telling me about his recent trips and mentioned about Ellora, which spiked my interest in the conversation. I had marked down Ellora as one of the places I wanted to visit before I left Pune, given its proximity to Pune.

I asked him if he would take me there over the weekend, which he agreed. So off we went, to the famous Ellora caves in Aurangabad.

Ellora has 34 caves – 12 carved by Buddhists, 17 by Hindus and 5 by Jains. Cave No. 16 (Kailash Temple) is the most popular and awe-inspiring cave. It is carved from a single monolithic rock, is a World Heritage Site and is an architectural marvel.

Ellora Caves Images

Here are the snaps from my trip to Ellora. If you would like to explore the caves from the comforts of your home, you can do so by going to the Ellora caves official website: http://elloracaves.org/about.php

Ellora caves photos - Cave 10 - Carpenter's Cave
Cave #10 is – Most famous of the Buddhist caves. Also known as ‘Carpenter’s Cave’.
kailasa temple ellora images
It was drizzling. The rock was slippery. Like many, I too am scared of heights; my legs were trembling. Yet I risked my life and took this snap. For you! (A bit overdramatic there eh.. :)). This is Cave #16 – Kailasa temple. It is a single rocked carved in that shape!
kailasa temple ellora photos
They came, they saw, and they took a selfie.
kailasa temple ellora photos
Cave #16 – If you haven’t read Mahabharata, worry not. Just decipher the carvings here. A carved panel depicting the story of Mahabharata.
kailasa temple ellora architecture
I dont really know what this carving means, but looks to me like a person dusting himself; maybe implying the significance of keeping oneself clean. I think he is also shown wearing a fitness tracker; signifying the importance of health.
ellora caves architechure
Room with a view: A view from Cave #29. This must have been a premium room back then.
ellora caves architechure - cave 32
Cave #32 – ‘An excellent amalgamation of Dravidian and Buddhist architecture styles’, says the literature I got from there. Well, I agree.
kailasa temple ellora images
Inside the Kailasa cave
Monkey gate: Had great fun watching the monkeys outside the caves. Here’s a li’l fella admiring his banana.

If you enjoyed this Ellora caves architecture post, please share:

Pune heritage walk: reliving history

Posted on July 23, 2017March 31, 2022 by SamTram

What is the Pune heritage walk?

Pune Heritage walk is organized by Pune Municipal Corporation and Janwani Pune, an NGO. A National Award-winning walk (for the Best Heritage Walk project), it is conducted on all weekends at 7 am.

The three-hour-long walk takes you around eighteen different heritage sites and is conducted in three languages: Hindi, English and Marathi.

It is an amazing cultural experience that takes you through the heart of Pune and is a great way to experience the splendour and culture of Pune. This is an account of my Pune Heritage walk experience.

Absorbed in History

I don’t know how long I’d been standing there in front of the massive ‘Dilli Darwaza’ of Shaniwar Wada in Pune, enamoured by the several rows of steel spikes protruding out from the mid-section of those giant doors.

Named so because the entrance faces north towards Delhi, Dilli Darwaza and its spikes were easily the most noteworthy items I saw in the fort. The spikes, as I learned later, were to prevent enemy elephants from charging the doors.

As I wrapped my fist around one of the spikes, I conjured up images of the fort in its glory days – ornately clad elephants and powerful soldiers with heavy weapons doing routine marches sprang to life in my mind’s eye.

The mental imagery left me in an intoxicated state (yeah, I don’t need much to get a high these days. Maybe it is old age setting in). As I walked into the fort, I wondered why I never found history so appealing during my school days.

Pune heritage walk
The massive Dilli Darwaza of Shaniwar Wada

 

How do you do a heritage walk?

I was on a ‘Pune Heritage Walk’ – a guided walk through eighteen historic sites of old Pune. I had recently moved to Pune and was finding it difficult to get adjusted to this vast city.

Having lived in a small, coastal town down south (Mangalore) for more than a decade, I had gotten used to the small commutes from home to the office, low traffic and relatively less polluted environments.

The suburb in Pune, where I had taken an apartment, was in total contrast to this. I found the pollution (due to ongoing fast-paced construction all around), traffic and vastness too overwhelming for me.

Having to live away from my family and friends added to my woes. Two things helped me maintain my sanity: food, and my weekend explorations on foot through various parts of Pune.

When it comes to food, I can eat anything (well, anything except bitter gourds). Food is usually my therapy for lifting spirits – my BMI is testimony to that.

On weekends, I walked around different parts of Pune, clicking pictures with my ten-year-old Nikon

Pune heritage walk
A street vendor selling mangoes. I managed to shoot it while drooling.

One such exploration had led me to the Peths of Pune, and I instantly fell in love with old Pune.

The dilapidated but still functional Wadas, heavily crowded streets, shops selling all sorts of colourful merchandise, strong scents of incense and street food wafting through the air – all provide for a heady sensory experience.

If Pune were a living being, these old parts of Pune would be its heart – for this is where life throbs with raw energy in Pune.

Well, in short, I was fascinated with all the history that lay frozen in time in ‘old’ Pune, and I was hungry to learn more; Pune heritage walk promised me just that and I signed up for one.

Pune heritage walk
The insides of a Wada (a traditional mansion house)

Pune heritage walk
This one looked like it could come down anytime. Needless to say, I didn’t stay long here.

Pune heritage walk
She was wondering what the fuss was all about.

Pune heritage walk
I have always been a fan of windows. Ergo.

Held on Weekends (Saturday and Sunday at 7:00 am), Pune Heritage walk is organized by Pune Municipal Corporation and Janwani Pune, an NGO.

The organizers had asked me to be present in front of the Pune Municipal Corporation building by 7 am. I reached there 20 minutes ahead of time, and since I had some time to kill, I set off in search of some morning tea. I found a bakery nearby, had a glass of very sweet, tasty ginger flavoured tea and returned.

By then, a decent-sized group of fellow participants had assembled in front of the building. Among the participants were a family of four, a few young couples and a German lady. Some of them were conversing intently with our very knowledgeable guide. He handed us each a brochure containing details about the sites we were about to visit.

Pune Heritage Walk: Shivaji bridge

We started off our walk with an overview of the PMC building from our guide; after which he shepherded us onto Shivaji bridge.

Much like the Kapoors, this bridge is known by two to three different names – Lloyd’s bridge and Nava Pul being the other names.

The bridge, constructed over 90 years ago, had open terraces and lamp posts since the British had built it as a spot for spending evenings. The bridge was built using a mix of European and Arabic architecture styles.

Pune heritage walk photo
My next house will have an entrance like this.
Pune heritage walk photo
In Pune, you can find Chhatrapati Shivaji everywhere!

We then came upon the famous Shaniwar Wada fort, made even more popular recently by the Bollywood flick Bajirao Mastani.

Our guide told us some interesting tidbits about the fort, one of them being about the choice of the site – it was chosen after the Peshwas noticed a rabbit chasing a dog there (symbolizing their struggle against the powerful British army).

Frankly, for me, the fort itself was a big letdown. Once you enter the fort through the Dilli Darwaza, there isn’t much to see, really.

What was originally built as a seven-storeyed headquarters of the Peshwas had since been reduced to rubble by an unexplained fire. Today, what you will find inside is a garden and hordes of tourists taking selfies.

But our guide’s stories about the fort and my mind’s vivid imagination that brought those stories to life made the visit a memorable experience for me.

Pune heritage walk photo
The Jharoka above Dilli Darwaza.

 

Pune Heritage Walk: Kasba Peth and Nana Wada

Our walk took us through Kasba Peth, where skilled artisans and traders used to live. We were told not to use our cameras in Kasba Ganapathi temple since it was on the target list of terrorists. In front of the temple was a 104-year-old lady selling offerings for God.

I spotted quite a few artists around Kasba Peth, making sketches of various buildings in the area.

Nana Wada, built by the wise and influential minister of the Maratha Empire – Nana Fadnavis, was our next destination. Since it was being redone, we could see a lot of cardboard boxes, tools and debris in the building.

Pune heritage walk photo
The insides of Nana Wada.

One of the couples in our group seemed to have prepared well for this tour since they kept asking questions to our guide. Our guide, happy with the kind of interest his tour was getting, gladly poured out stories to them, partly in Marathi.

The couple clearly had become the guide’s favourites. I felt like I was in school again with peer pressure building up inside me, almost forcing me to ask some questions to keep up with the over-enthusiastic couple.

However, I quickly quashed the urge by putting on a ‘strong silent man’ look and nodding my head whenever our guide looked at me.

Pune Heritage Walk: Bhaurangari Ganpati temple

Our next stop, Bhaurangari Ganpati temple, turned out to be very interesting. The temple is housed in a two-storey home of a gentleman named Bhau Lakshman Javale, a physician who ran a charitable dispensary.

He came to be more famously known as ‘Bhau Rangari’ since his family vocation was dyeing ethnic Maharashtrian sarees. Bhau Rangari also aided revolutionaries of the freedom struggle, helping them store their weapons so that they could move around without the British being suspicious of them.

The house has secret tunnels, and the front door has a secret latch (that still works), which the revolutionaries could use to enter the house even when it is locked from inside.

This was quite a hit with our group, and we role-played what fleeing revolutionaries would’ve done – clicking open the latch to enter the house, and vanishing inside.

The Lord Ganapati idol here does not have the usual peaceful demeanour; instead, the depiction shows a violent Ganapati killing a monster – said to symbolize the freedom fighters’ aspiration to overthrow the British rule.

This is also where the first public Ganesh festival was held in Pune. Originally organized as a commonplace where the revolutionaries could meet and pass on information about the Freedom struggle, the celebrations have since become bigger and more popular.

Pune heritage walk photo
There’s a woman behind every beautiful basket too.

Mahatma Phule Mandai

We then moved on to a British built closed vegetable market, known now as Mahatma Phule Mandai. It is an

impressive structure built by the British to deliberately change the then-prevalent system of openly selling vegetables on the streets by the Indians. The vegetables appeared fresh, and the Mandai provided me with some good photo opportunities.

Tulshi Baug Ram Mandir

After quick visits to some of the other spots including Tulshi Baug Ram Mandir – a peaceful temple, we ended our 3-hour walk at Vishrambaug Wada, a fine mansion that used to be the luxurious residence of Peshwa Bajirao II.

The organizers gave us each a decently sized Modak (a sweet dumpling) to mark the end of our tour, which all of us tired souls gulped down gratefully.

Pune heritage walk photo
Inside Mahatma Phule Mandai. He was enjoying a hot tea and didn’t quite appreciate my photographing him.
Pune heritage walk photo
Near Tulshi Baug.

I should say that the 3 hours I spent walking around old Pune was truly an exhilarating experience. When I moved to Pune, one of my friends had told me: “people either love Pune or hate it totally”.

I thought I belonged to the latter group during my initial stay in Pune, but now I realize that I may be among the rare few who fall somewhere in the middle – as someone who hates Pune’s commercially developed areas but loves the rugged charm of old Pune.

Note: To know more about Pune Heritage Walk, please visit www.puneheritagewalk.com

If you are interested in reading about my other exploits while in Pune, please check out this article: https://sampathmk.com/on-a-food-truck-trail-in-pune

Food trucks in Pune

Posted on July 18, 2017March 31, 2022 by SamTram

I got a chance to explore some famous food trucks in Pune. This is an account of my Pune Food Truck escapade. Before we get there, a backstory:

Some years ago,… no, I should say many years ago… in fact many, many years ago… during my high school days to be precise, I used to be infatuated with a red Herald car parked in Kalamassery junction.

Kalamassery junction, if you don’t know, is a busy junction on one of the state highways in Ernakulam and is located right in front of the Apollo Tyres factory.

Now if you are wondering what on earth a Herald car is, let me explain. In those days, if you wanted to buy a car, you had 3 choices: get a bulky, manly Ambassador; a petite, chic Fiat or a tired-looking, elderly Herald. While Ambassadors and Fiats ruled the roads, one could occasionally see a Herald sputtering along.

Now, this specific, aforementioned Herald that was parked in Kalamassery junction was quite different. For starters, it never moved from where it was parked.

It was painted bright red and had some chrome that caught your eye. And to top it all, it was a topless model. Now if you are drooling over that thought, wait till you hear this – come nighttime, this topless model turned into a topless model with great racks … of terrific street food!

Yeah, baby! I’m talking Food truck here – the earliest version of a food truck that I’ve seen in my life. Thus began my love for topless models…err… food trucks.

Cut to the present day. Since I have been living in Pune for close to a year now, and since Pune has numerous food trucks, and since I don’t have my wife here to tug me away from junk food eateries, I decided that I should visit some of these trucks to see how their food compared with that of their tyre-less counterparts.

I searched on the internet to identify a few popular ones. Here are some notes from my food trucks adventure:

Food trucks in Pune: Boston Food Truck

Food trucks in Pune: Boston food truck
Boston Food Truck: Hard to miss

The first food truck I checked out was called ‘Boston Food Truck’. This was just a stone’s throw away from where I lived. A white truck with the image of a man waving an American-like flag is hard to miss.

I’d reached the spot early – around 6 pm and hence I didn’t see many customers around. The owner – Mr Anand Jamdhade – was there himself.

Food trucks in Pune: Boston food truck
Mr Anand Jhamdade, owner of Boston Food Truck

I ordered a chicken burger and got to talk to him.

It’d been more than two years since he opened this food truck. Before opening this truck, he was based near Boston, MA (That explains the name of the food truck).

He talked me through the construction and economics of a food truck and mentioned that the kitchen is created with 3 mm steel insides to keep away the heat (don’t ask me the physics of that).

It took him close to 17 lakh Rupees to set this one up! He is working out a franchisee model to scale.

While we were talking, a pair of hands (belonging to his helper) appeared from inside the truck and extended a basket containing the burger that I’d ordered.

Food trucks in Pune: Boston food truck
Chicken burger from Boston Food Truck

The burger looked good, and I lifted the top half of the bun to see what was under the hood.

Some mayonnaise, a few tomato slices, pickled cucumber pieces and a chicken patty stared back at me. So far, so good. I put the top back, squeezed the burger and gave it a big bite.  

While I was doing this, I could hear Mr. Anand passionately describing the making of this burger. “…we ever so slightly toast the buns; just enough so that the flavours break out…” – was all I could make out before the rest of his words were drowned by my own munching sounds.

I took a few snaps of his food truck, thanked him and booked an Uber to get me to my next destination – Breaking Bread Food Truck.

Breaking Bread

Food trucks in Pune: Breaking Bread
Breaking Bread Food Truck

Breaking Bread is a blue and orange food truck located opposite the Crossword book store in Aundh. The location looked lively, with food joints all around.

There was a small crowd lined up in front of the truck. A young man carrying a messenger bag was taking orders and collecting cash from the customers while two men were busy cooking up dishes inside the truck. The menu looked interesting, and I ordered a Piri Piri Burger.

Food trucks in Pune: Breaking Bread
Piri Piri Burger: My kind of buger!

The burger served on a paper plate, looked massive yet wasn’t big enough to contain the chicken filling.

The filling spilt out of the buns and appeared dark and spicy.

My kind of burger – I thought to myself as I tried to get my palm around the burger to lift it up. The buns were soft and juicy – all buttered up.

With one bite; the bun melted and many flavours burst inside my mouth – the salty flavour of butter, the sourness of tomato and the fieriness of Piri Piri spices, all lit up my taste buds.

Having discovered a food truck worth its salt, I left the place a happy man. That was all my stomach could handle for the evening, and hence I decided to return to the other shortlisted food trucks another day.

Burgertron

Food trucks in Pune: Burgertron
Burgertron Food Truck

It took another week for me to get back on the food truck trail.

On a very rainy day, I took a cab to Wanowrie, where the next food truck on my list – Burgertron – was. Though located near a park and some busy streets, the place looked kind of isolated and was infested with street dogs when I got there.

I was apprehensive that the dogs would get a bite out of the buns – my burgers and mine; so I decided to wait for some time before I went to the truck. I stood on the opposite side of the road, keeping my eyes on the truck and the pack of dogs.

Once the dogs moved away, I made my way to the truck and ordered a chicken steak burger.

Food trucks in Pune: Burgertron
Chicken Steak Burger from Burgertron

Shortly, the burger arrived in a basket.

Now I had to balance an umbrella, a camera, a bag and a burger. To make matters worse, the basket was just large enough to hold the burger, and there was no space to slip my fingers in to hold the burger.

I decided to do the ‘dosa style’ of eating – by breaking pieces of the bread and eating them with pieces of chicken. The burger was slightly disappointing, given its blandness.

Maybe I should have ordered some other flavour.

Food trucks in Pune: Hennys Gourmet

Food trucks in Pune: Hennys Gourmet
Hennys Gourmet: No longer a truck.

Now this place appeared to be the most popular among the food trucks that I read about and hence kept it for last.

Located in Wanowrie, it specializes in desserts – specifically waffles with sweet toppings. I walked from Burgertron over to the (slightly worn-out) green truck parked by the side of the road.

It was, however, closed. I had read that it opens every night at 8.30 pm. I checked my watch – it was 8.30 pm sharp. Slightly disappointed, I decided to wait for some time.

I ambled over to a café located across the street and ordered some coffee. I sipped my coffee and waited. I waited for some time, and then some more. No sign of the operators.

At around 9.30 pm, I decided that I had waited long enough. I gave a call to the Hennys Gourmet phone number that I had found online. When someone picked up, I asked:

“Hello, do you plan to open today?”

“We are already open sir”, came the response in a female voice.

Perplexed, I shot a glance at the truck. It was still dark and the windows were down.

“But..but..your truck is all dark – I don’t see anyone there”.

“Oh..oh…we don’t operate from the truck anymore. Please walk back about 450 meters, and you will see our shop”.

Dang. I quickly paid up for the coffee and walked back as directed. Sure enough, I soon came across the bright, inviting green sign of Hennys Gourmet.

The sweet aroma of freshly baked waffles filled the air. In the cold, wet weather, that aroma and the warmth emanating from the shop evoked an awesome feeling in me.

A long queue had formed in front of the store, consisting of happy people.

Children were giggling in anticipation and talking excitedly.

When my turn came to order, I decided to go for a slice of Belgian chocolate waffle and a mango one.

I had to wait a bit before my number was called. I got to the counter, and a sweet lady handed me the pieces of heaven that I had ordered.

I dug into the Belgian chocolate waffle first.

Bliss!

Food trucks in Pune: Hennys Gourmet
Belgian chocolate and mango jelly topped waffles: Heavenly!

There are a few more food trucks that I will need to check out – Buddhas Food Palace, L’dorado, JW Marriot, Mexican Rodeo to name a few.

Maybe another day. For now, from among the ones I did check out, I think I will return to Breaking Bread and Hennys Gourmet for more.

Finally, as a closing note, I would like to mention that this assignment indeed helped me grow as a person. My waist size has increased to 38 from 36.

Now to get some new pants!

Have you tried any of these food trucks? Which one did you like best?

If you liked this article about food trucks in Pune, please check out my post about the Pune heritage walk. Here: https://sampathmk.com/pune-heritage-walk-reliving-history.

Visiting Boracay?

Posted on March 12, 2016March 28, 2022 by SamTram

Boracay is a beautiful island in the central Philippines known for its resorts and beaches. If you are looking for reasons to visit Boracay or are planning on visiting Boracay, please read this blog post as it covers some of the fun things to do in Boracay.

***

Boracay: An Unexpected Invitation

Whenever my wife goes shopping for that extra pair of footwear she doesn’t really need (well, is there such a thing), I tease her saying, “Oh, another pair … who do you think you are – Imelda Marcos?”.  Over the years, I had actually forgotten who Imelda Marcos was, but the phrase still lives on in my household.

Let me throw some light on how that phrase came about. Imelda Marcos is the widow of former Philippine President Ferdinand Marcos, notable for her collection of shoes. As a First Lady, Imelda used to live a lavish lifestyle as most Filipinos remained in poverty. I learned about her in my growing-up years from our local newspaper, which had carried a full-page feature on her, along with photos of her shoe collection – large rooms filled with shoes.

Given that short introduction to Imelda and her poor countrymen, you may have got a fair idea about my wife’s shopping priorities and possibly my current financial situation as well. That tidbit about the Philippine President and First Lady covered about 80% of what I knew about the Philippines until about a month back. Here are the remaining (mostly useless) facts I knew about the little island country:

  • That Philippine people have been trumping Indians in the Call centre/BPO business lately.
  • Manny Pacquiao (Remember Pacquiao vs Mayweather – 2015?) lost his Nike contract recently.
  • Kerala film actor Soman played the role of a detective disguised as a Filippino in the popular yesteryear movie ‘Akkare akkare akkare’.

I don’t know if the last point could be counted as valid Philippines trivia, but hey, we are talking my list, and that’s firmly on it.

Then all of it changed – my knowledge base on the Philippines expanded exponentially – because, suddenly, the Philippines came into my life rather unexpectedly. I spent 7 wonderful days on a beautiful island in the Philippines, named Boracay, last month. A beautiful island with white sand beaches, turquoise-green waters (you know – the kind of beaches you would see in luxury product advertisements), corals and lovely people.

Things to do in Boracay!
I was going to Boracay!

You know, life can be funny. I never had heard of such a place in my life nor dreamt that I would ever visit this place one day. But here I was, in one of the most beautiful of Philippines beaches, sitting around lazily in my shorts, showing off my well rounded hairy Indian body, sipping cold coffee and dipping my fork in sticky white rice, watching the sun come up and go down. How was this even possible? Enter my friend, ‘Smiling Buddha’. I refer him thus for the following reasons:

  • He is into Buddhism
  • He is a cheerful person, and his sole aim in life is to see others happy; so he doesn’t mind putting himself through any discomfort for the happiness of others, and
  • To save him from any embarrassment that this article may wreak on him.

Many of his friends and he were planning this trip to Boracay, and he included me in their plans since he knew I needed some lifting of spirits. When he called and informed me of the travel plans, he’d already made reservations for me, and all I had to do was get my amply sized back into the competitively sized economy class seat of an AirAsia flight. Well, that was a small discomfort I was ready to live with in exchange for a magical week on a beautiful tropical island. I am visiting Boracay!

Why is Boracay famous?

Boracay is one of the many beautiful islands in the Philippines and gets its name from its fine, white beach sand that resembles cotton (which in the local language is Borac). And what are the top favourite activities to do in Boracay?

  1. To do nothing, or
  2. Watch the sun come up and go down (if you are the active kind, I guess).

I did not make those up – I actually read that in a book about Boracay that I found in my hotel room. There are about 30 beaches in and around Boracay; White beach and Bulabog being the most popular. We had booked our accommodation at Hotel Milflores De Boracay – a well-kept, cosy hotel located close to White beach.

Now that's an office with a view
Now that’s an office with a view.

Can I fly to Boracay?

Our flight to the Philippines had us coming through Malaysia, where we had a rather long transit. We spent most of our time in the airport food court, enjoying ‘kaya’/butter toasts and Teh Tarik (Milk Tea) from the Toast Box outlet. We then flew into Calebo through Manila, from where a 2-hour bus ride got us to a ferry, across which was Boracay.

The bus ride gave us a peek into the Philippines countryside – green paddies, locals going through their day lazily – all of which reminded me of my home town back in Kerala. The Philippines must have the worst looking electric distribution system – the lines bunched up shabbily, running along everywhere, spoiling otherwise picturesque views.

Tricycles - the most popular mode of transport in Philippines
Tricycles – the most popular mode of transport in the Philippines

From the jetty, we had to take a boat to Boracay. Boats in the Philippines are narrow and have bamboo structures attached to their sides for stability and support. The ride itself was adventurous and scary at times when the boat negotiated giant waves. The whole jetty, the boats and the hardened, shabby boatmen reminded me of the movie ‘Water World’.

By the time we got to Boracay Jetty, I was wet and dripping, my hair on all parts of my body standing up and my legs wobbly. I managed to walk myself to terra firma by tip-toeing and balancing over a narrow plank they had set up between the boat and the jetty. If getting to Boracay was such an adventure, I wondered what would be awaiting us in the coming days. Thanking God, we entered the mini-van that took us to our hotel.

Water world!
Water world!

Laughing Buddha had planned our week to a tee. Not a hard thing to do since we planned to have a vacation with no agenda nor time pressures. Every day, the bunch of us would wake up at some reasonable hour in the morning, walk down to the beach, park ourselves in a beach-side café and decide on how we should be spending the rest of the day. Here are some activities we did in Boracay:

Walking the most famous beach in Boracay

Walking the 3.5 km White beach stretch: The walkway alongside the beach is lined with small shops selling all kinds of stuff, restaurants and cafes. As we walked, we also bumped into hawkers selling Baluts (boiled, fertilized duck egg). Now that’s something one doesn’t get to eat often in our part of the world, so we did give it a try. I should say that if you can get over the looks of it, you should try it. Not bad at all.

View from one of the cafes we sat in to plan our day
View from one of the cafes we sat in to plan our day
DSC_0123

Helmet Diving in Boracay

Helmet diving: Remember Captain Haddock going underwater in Red Rackhams Treasure? That’s precisely what this is, except that one doesn’t need to wear a heavy suit. A boat took us to a large stationary platform from which divers helped us wear a 30 kg helmet fitted with an oxygen pipe and guided us through a beautiful underwater walk. If you, like me, have an eternal fear of the deep blue sea thanks to the Jaws movies you saw in your childhood, you may find it difficult to go under. But once you get over that initial fear, this is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Wondering why you aren't seeing any divers? They are all under water!
Wondering why you aren’t seeing any divers? They are all underwater!

Island hopping in Boracay

Island hopping: They took us to 3 beautiful islands near Boracay – Puka Beach, Crystal Bay and Tambisaan Beach. This was a full-day activity and included a buffet lunch. Puka beach is one of the cleanest and most beautiful beaches I’ve seen in my life.

One of the beautiful rocky islands we visited
One of the beautiful rocky islands we visited
Watching the kite surfers do their stuff in Bulabog island
Watching the kite surfers do their stuff in Bulabog island

Parasailing in Boracay

Parasailing: Well, if you like to be unleashed from a speedboat and left dangling in the air for about 20 minutes, parasailing is for you. If you can stop worrying about whether you are buckled safely to the parachute or what could happen if the rope gets cut, you could catch some great aerial views of Boracay. Boracay is one of the many places where you can do parasailing in philippines.

Parasailing
Parasailing

Snorkelling in Boracay

Snorkelling: Now, this one, everyone can try – even if you don’t know swimming. They took us in a boat to a shallow area where we were given the gear and helped to water. If you don’t know swimming, you could hold on to the ropes tied to the boat and dip your head underwater to get fabulous views of corals and fish underwater.

Snorkeling
Snorkelling

ATV ride in Boracay

ATV/Buggy ride to the top of Mt. LuhoThis is where we explored the island on an ATV and went up Mt. Luho to catch a great view of the island.

ATV / Buggy ride
ATV / Buggy ride

Nightlife in Boracay

Evenings in Boracay: Once the sun goes down, everyone settles into one of the many restaurants lining the beach. While some have live music, many have flame dancers who amaze the audience with ‘live-fire performances. Every night we explored a different restaurant and loved each one of them.

As the Sun goes down, the beach side restaurants become active
As the sun goes down, the beachside restaurants become active
Amazing night life and dinner options at Boracay
Amazing nightlife and dinner options at Boracay

D Talipapa Boracay

D’ Talipapa – Wet Market: This is a fish market where we got to see the freshest of seafood, haggled with the sellers for the lowest price, took our fish to the nearest restaurant where they cooked them just the way we wanted. A fun experience, though the haggling part was a bit uncomfortable.

Want this? At the Wet market
Want this? At the Wet market
Sales pitch in progress
Sales pitch in progress
Fresh catch - grilled
Fresh catch – grilled

Scuba diving Boracay Philippines

Scuba diving: Scattered along the White beach walkway, you can find shacks where you could sign up for learning Scuba diving. There are about 15 dive sites near Boracay with underwater tunnels, caves, corals and other beautiful spots. After giving it some consideration, we decided not to do Scuba diving on this trip.

There are many more activities in Boracay, including banana boat riding, flying fish, cliff diving, sailing, sailboarding, canoeing and a lot more. Be it a lazy vacation, or an adrenaline-pumping active one, Boracay has something for everyone. It took me a few weeks after I returned to get over my Boracay hangover. For now, I am just thankful to Laughing Buddha for introducing me to a new land. I hope you enjoyed this brief post on the top things to do in Boracay.

Sights along the White beach - Weird items seller?
Sights along the White beach – Weird items seller?
The vast expanse of White beach
The vast expanse of White beach
Sights along the White beach - Getting pork ready for dinner
Sights along the White beach – Getting pork ready for dinner
Fun and frolic all the way
Fun and frolic all the way
kite boarding at Bulabog beach
kiteboarding at Bulabog beach
One of the top favourite activities in Boracay - doing nothing
One of the top favourite activities in Boracay – doing nothing
My last shot from Boracay
My last shot from Boracay

PS: I am working extra time to pay back my trip expenses to Laughing Buddha. However, he may not take it from me.

Is Boracay open for tourists in 2022?

Good news is that it is! Please check this article to know the travel requirements: https://www.pinoyadventurista.com/2021/10/latest-boracay-travel-requirements-for-tourists.html

A low budget trip to Goa

Posted on November 16, 2015March 28, 2022 by SamTram

I was visiting Goa in September. If you are looking for Goa places to visit in 3 days, please read on. Unlike my other visits (one such here: https://sampathmk.com/go-goa-gone), this one was different since this one involved offbeat things to do in Goa. Read on.

Planning the Goa visit

I wanted to get away from normal life for a few days and chose Goa as my hideout after reading various traveller accounts on the serene Goan countryside. Two of my friends had decided to join in as well. One has a home in Vasco that was lying vacant, which he graciously let us use for a few days (yeah, I do have some useful friends. Let’s call this friend ‘House Owner Friend’ or ‘HOF’ for short). The other – let’s call him ‘Beardy’ since he has a beard for a face – was gracious enough to take time out from his busy schedule to join in.

Since we’d also decided that this would be a ‘Goa on a shoestring budget’ trip, Beardy had chosen The Indian Railways for his travel, and to keep his costs low, he had gone in for General or Second Class tickets. He had planned to visit his hometown, so his itinerary looked as follows: Bangalore > Goa > Kerala > Bangalore. For having booked such a long trip for under Rs 1000, he was feeling pretty good about himself, and also got me feeling a tad guilty for choosing to fly into Goa (My justification: I was coming in from Mumbai and had got a cheap flight using the combination of a MakeMyTrip deal and my Payback points).

Beardy had reached Goa earlier that morning and had come to the airport to pick me up. The 15-hour second class rail journey he’d undertaken in the Indian heat should’ve made him 2 shades darker and caked his face with dust and dirt. But there he was, bright and shiny. All thanks to his beard, I supposed, inside which he must’ve cocooned himself all through the journey.

Since I was here searching for peace and tranquillity, I wanted this to be a quiet, offbeat kind of trip (Plus, I’d already done the usual Baga-Calangute-Casinos tourist circuit a few times). HOF proved to be even more resourceful when he jugaad-fied a car from one of his friends that we could use while we were there. Thus began our 3 day ‘offbeat Goa’ sojourn.

Vasco

Vasco (short for Vasco da Gama; named after the famous Portuguese explorer) – a port city and Naval base, heavily relies on the port for most of its economic activity. As a tourist, Vasco is probably the last place in Goa you would want to end up in, especially when Tripadvisor lists ‘Vasco’s Municipal Market’ as one of the top 5 places to see here. But Vasco is indeed a beautiful little city. Vasco also threw up a few hidden gems.

Ananthashram Goa

First, a restaurant named ‘Ananthashram’ (an unlikely name for a Goan non-vegetarian restaurant!). The special non-veg thali (rice plate with different kinds of seafood sides) I had there was just out of the world – so fresh, delicious and in line with our shoestring budget. The normal non-veg thali (with a few sides, one fish curry and one fish fry) is just Rs 80, and the special thali is Rs 300. We kept going back there for more every night.

I have always been a fan of Goan Fish curry (Mamma’s kitchen in Panaji is where I had it first), and Ananthashram’s version is by far the best I’ve had. We also tried the Mackeral Reshad (Reacheado), Red Snapper (Chonak) Reshad and Goa’s famous Chicken Vindaloo during our subsequent visits. While the Reshards were terrific (slightly sweetish), I didn’t dig the vindaloo.

So if you ever stray into Vasco, hunt down this place and have fish from there. If you don’t like it, your next meal’s on me.


Aside: Later, when I was back in Mangalore, I got this deep craving to eat some Mackeral Reshad again. So I got hold of a recipe (here’s the one: http://www.food.com/recipe/fish-reshad-stuffed-fish-goan-style-102408) and cooked myself. It turned out OK, but not as good as the one I had back in Vasco.

mackeral reshard


IMG_20151105_104402The other gem you should definitely visit is a bakery named Temptation. The chocolate-vanilla rolls and bebinca (a Goan sweet), which I picked up based on HOF’s recommendation, were lovely.

Then there’s the Bogmalo beach which we visited towards late evening. We had our dinner at Joet’s on the beach. The fish fingers, made from sardines (who makes fish fingers using sardines?!), destroyed the evening for us, but then some of the other dishes we had salvaged it to some extent.

The days I spent in Vasco also led me to believe that Goan women are more hardworking than men. Now, I may be wrong here, but I say this because I saw more working women than men in Vasco – selling stuff in markets, transporting heavy loads by balancing sacks and buckets on their heads, running eateries, baking cakes and bebinca, or just plain bossing their husbands.

DSC_1800

Beardy had to rush home!

Late that night, we were awakened by a phone call that Beardy received. His tenant called from back home, saying that the house was flooded due to incessant rains in Bangalore.

Apparently, Beardy had faced this situation once earlier, when the shit had hit the fan (no, seriously. Dirt from the clogged gutters and tanks had floated in, and he was awakened in the middle of the night, floating alongside the aforementioned dirt, much closer to the fan than he had set himself to rest the previous night. It had taken him two days of back-breaking work to get his house back so that time).

After instructing his tenant to remain vertical and keep everything important 2 feet above ground level, he started checking for flights to head back to Bangalore. He booked an early morning flight which cost him four and a half thousand rupees. There went all the shoestring budget planning down the drain – what a waste! In parting, like a true optimist, he remarked thus: “On a brighter note, it’s not every day that I get to make a 15-hour train journey for dinner”.

goa streets

Offbeat Goa: Morjim, Mandrem, Arambol beaches

Driving is what relaxes me the most. I sometimes wonder whether I should have pursued my childhood dream of becoming a bus driver. We were driving up north with a rough intention of seeing some of the beautiful beaches of North Goa.

Driving through the hinterlands of Goa was a fresh and beautiful experience for me. The roads in Goa, unlike those in many other parts of India, are very well maintained. Many new bridges that have come up in the past few years have connected the interiors and islands better by road.

DSC_1813
DSC_1786
DSC_1809
Offbeat Goa Morjem

We soon came upon Morjim beach. Sun was beating down hard, and the beautiful, white-sandy beach glistened in the sunlight. There were only a few people around, mostly foreigners, either resting on those wooden beach chairs or inside water. Morjim beach is also a nesting and hatching habitat of the Olive ridley sea turtle, an endangered species. You can see the Goa forest department’s Turtle conservation centre at the entrance of the beach.

Further north is the Mandrem beach, which we skipped and continued our journey to Arambol beach – considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Goa. Arambol, like Morjem, was not very crowded but had more shacks/eateries lining the beach. We had lunch at a nearby joint, at the beach entrance (just outside the car park). The food (again, centring on fish), though a bit oily, was fresh and good. The joint had posters of art and yoga pasted all around. These beaches up north, as I could see, were more about relaxation, peace and tranquillity. We wanted to drive to Querim (Keri) beach, the northernmost beach of Goa, but the heavy lunch made us lethargic, and we decided to drive to Chorao island lazily.

Offbeat Goa 2

DSC_1781

Offbeat Goa: Chorao and Divar islands

A list of Offbeat locations in Goa won’t be complete without mentioning Chorao and Divar islands. They should be on your itinerary if you want to get a taste of the picturesque settings of rural Goa. Our drive through Chorao village gave us beautiful views of green and yellow paddies, small white chapels, brightly coloured Portuguese villas and some thatched houses. We also intercepted one of the famous Goan bread seller cyclists and sampled some Pois. Chorao Island is also home to Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary – Goa’s only bird sanctuary. We took the ferry to Ribander before driving back to Vasco that night.

Offbeat Goa 1

DSC_1850

DSC_1854

The next day, we drove through Amona, Sanquelim, Bicholim and Maem before taking a ferry across to Divar island. My inexperience with a ferry came to the fore when I did an eight-point turn to get out front first instead of backing my car out from the ferry onto land. Had I done this in any other part of India, I would’ve been shouted at and sworn off the ferry, but here in Goa, I just got patient, helpless smiles and a bit of help in my endeavour. Good Goans. The ferry ride also offered us terrific views of Old Goa. Like the island of Chorao, Divar also offers views of elegant, well maintained Portuguese villas. After my visit to Divar, I heard from a friend of mine that some of the Portuguese villas are available for rent for visitors. Maybe next time.

DSC_1846

Offbeat Goa: Harvalem (Arvalem) caves and waterfall

Harvalem caves, also known as “Pandava Caves, ” is a site protected by India’s Archaeological Society. Believed to have given shelter to the Pandavas, this cave has many chambers carved into a laterite hill. Further down the cave is the Arvalem waterfall, which made the trip to this place worth it to me.

DSC_1815

DSC_1824

DSC_1837

Offbeat Goa: Cumbarjua

Cumbarjua canal is the only place in Goa where crocodiles can actually be seen in the wild. We did drive to the small village of Cumbarjua but failed to find someone who could take us into the canal. Asking around with the locals didn’t help either, and so we had to abort this mission. I have to go back to for this sometime. I will most probably go with these people: http://www.southernbirdwing.com/goa_wildlife/croc_cruises.htm. Or, I could visit Baga to see some crocs (based on this article. http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/goa/After-Morjim-now-crocodile-shows-up-on-Baga-beach/articleshow/49559523.cms).

DSC_1792

Ruins of St. Augustines.

I had seen what looked like a run-down church while on the ferry to Divar, and as soon as I landed in Old Goa, I decided to see this place. The structure that I’d seen was the ruins of St Augustine, which is located very close to Bom Jesus Basilica. Now in complete ruins, the church gave me the creeps, especially since there wasn’t anyone around.

DSC_1863

DSC_1883Small

DSC_1884

Three days driving through the hinterlands, experiencing Goa’s sunny susegad did provide me with what I came looking for: a bit of peace and calm. This was a fun, offbeat trip to Goa that will stay with me forever. This is the side of Goa I want to return to someday, maybe on my bike.

P.S: Beardy got his house back in order and plans to revisit Goa during sunnier times (in Bangalore, that is).

**********

Update: A condensed version of this post was published on Huffington Post, India. Please click the image below to view it there:

HuffPoInda

**********

What about you – what are some of your favourite things to do in Goa? Leave your comments below

  • 1
  • 2
  • Next
  • A walk around Iblur lake, Bangalore
  • A Sony Alpha Workshop experience
  • Exploring Sri Lanka
  • Vipassana experience: I failed!
  • Chettinad houses: Symbols of a glorious past!
ArchivesArchivesAugust 2, 2014SamTram
AboutJuly 12, 2026SamTram
Hornbill Festival NagalandHornbill Festival NagalandDecember 21, 2019SamTram
  • November 2024
  • October 2024
  • March 2023
  • February 2023
  • March 2022
  • December 2019
  • November 2019
  • October 2019
  • June 2019
  • May 2019
  • December 2018
  • January 2018
  • November 2017
  • September 2017
  • July 2017
  • March 2016
  • January 2016
  • November 2015
  • October 2015
  • June 2015
  • March 2015
  • February 2015
  • December 2014
  • November 2014
  • October 2014
  • September 2014
  • August 2014
  • July 2014
  • April 2014
  • November 2013
  • April 2013
  • August 2011
  • May 2011
  • January 2011
© 2026 Sam Travel Magazine | Powered by Minimalist Blog WordPress Theme